At Allure, we delve deep into the world of foundation, exploring beloved formulas, recent reformulations, and the go-to products of esteemed makeup artists for their celebrity clientele. Recently, a significant shift in our editorial discussions has centered on the intersection of foundation and the natural aging process. As numerous Allure staff members navigate their late thirties, forties, fifties, and beyond, they’ve observed that the foundations they’ve relied on for years are no longer delivering the desired results. Formulas that once provided a flawless canvas are now settling into fine lines, medium coverage can appear mask-like, and while skin tints offer a pleasant aesthetic, they often lack the necessary staying power.
This evolving understanding of foundation needs across different age groups has prompted an in-depth exploration of product efficacy and application techniques tailored to the changing demands of mature skin.
Sophia Panych, Content Director, is currently reassessing her foundation choices as she approaches 40. "I’ve used the same few formulas for nearly a decade, and I dislike how dry and dull they make my skin look now, especially under my eyes," she shares. Her experience is not unique. Multiple editors report that after hitting their thirties, their skin seems to require more hydrating coverage and a greater degree of flexibility from their foundation. Senior Beauty Editor Jesa Marie Calaor recounts, "My favorite matte powder foundation was excellent when I had immaculate skin in my twenties, but now it does nothing for my complexion, which is dry and dehydrated." Calaor has since transitioned to a serum foundation in her thirties.
Recognizing that this is a widespread concern, Allure sought expert advice from leading makeup artists and dermatologists. Many professionals emphasize taking age out of the equation when selecting a foundation. "The best foundation isn’t really about age; it’s about what your skin is doing right now," states Christian Briceno, a New York City-based makeup artist. However, age can provide valuable indicators of your skin’s evolving needs. For many individuals in their late thirties and beyond, these needs often translate to a requirement for increased moisture and a lighter touch in application. Dr. Michelle Henry, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City, explains, "As we get older, our skin gets drier; it also can get more sensitive."
Across the board, makeup artists underscore the critical importance of proper skin preparation, irrespective of age. "It’s key, especially if you are experiencing makeup clinging to dry patches," advises British makeup artist and founder of Lisa Eldridge Beauty, Lisa Eldridge. She notes that gentle exfoliation and a robust moisturizer "will work wonders for the staying power of your makeup." Furthermore, she adds, "Starting with your glow already established means you’ll end up needing less product to boost your luminosity." Products like the Rhode Barrier Butter and Olay Super Cream with Sunscreen SPF 30, both recognized for their ability to effectively plump the skin, are excellent pre-makeup options.
Dr. Henry also highlights the significance of skincare and suggests adopting a more minimalist approach to foundation as skin begins to change. "As you start to lose collagen and notice fine lines, the inclination can be to use makeup to cover it up, but I think skincare is more important at that point," she asserts. Crucially, she aims to dispel the misconception that makeup use should cease at a certain age, a sentiment she encounters frequently among her patients. Instead, she encourages embracing makeup that enhances a "well-hydrated, healthy look, rather than trying to fully cover up imperfections."
Eldridge posits that the ideal foundation is one that complements your skin type and desired coverage level, ultimately making you feel confident. For those, like some Allure staffers, who find their long-standing favorite foundations are no longer performing as they used to, understanding how to adapt application or explore new formulations becomes paramount.
Foundation Choices for Your Twenties: Balancing Acne Concerns with a Youthful Glow
The twenties are often characterized by a sense of freedom and exploration, but for many, this decade also presents ongoing skin concerns such as acne and clogged pores. Dr. Henry explains, "In your twenties, often people are still getting acne, and they’re concerned about clogged pores." For individuals battling acne during this period, she recommends seeking out oil-free formulas. The Clinique Acne Solutions Liquid Foundation, for instance, contains salicylic acid, making it a beneficial choice for younger individuals still managing breakouts.
For a lighter, more luminous finish, makeup artist Frank B., global artistic director for Milk Makeup, suggests serum foundations or skin tints for this age group. These formulas offer hydrating coverage with a dewy finish, effectively emphasizing a youthful glow. Associate Beauty Editor Annie Blay-Tettey, who navigates oily skin and occasional hormonal acne at 26, finds the Danessa Myricks Yummy Skin Serum Skin Tint to be a valuable asset. It provides a notable level of coverage without contributing to pore congestion. Another excellent, lightweight option is the Lisa Eldridge Enhancing Skin Tint, which delivers luminous coverage without overwhelming the skin. Notably, 39-year-old Sophia Panych is also a fan of this formula.
Transitioning in Your Thirties: Embracing Skin-Care-Infused and Buildable Formulas
As the thirties arrive, concerns such as fine lines, melasma, hyperpigmentation, and dark circles may become more apparent. This stage calls for makeup that works strategically, rather than relying on heavy coverage. Dr. Henry advises opting for foundations that incorporate skincare benefits, featuring ingredients like vitamin C, niacinamide, or hyaluronic acid. These active ingredients not only enhance the formula’s texture, making it smoother and easier to blend, but also contribute to skin health. However, it’s important to manage expectations; the active ingredients in makeup are unlikely to provide the same potency as dedicated skincare products due to lower concentrations and the thin application of complexion products, as previously explained by Heidi B. Prather, a board-certified dermatologist in Austin, Texas.
Experts universally agree that lightweight, buildable formulas are ideal for this decade. "The most flattering foundation is usually not the heaviest one. It’s the one that gives you control," notes Briceno. The Dior Forever Glow Foundation is a prime example, featuring glycerin and niacinamide high on its ingredient list to deliver hydration. Its medium-to-full coverage allows for buildability, making it suitable for both daily wear and special occasions.
Shanna Shippin, Allure‘s Commerce Director, who is in her thirties, finds the Dior Forever Skin Glow in 30 Warm Olive to be her long-standing favorite. While she typically prefers skin tints due to her dry skin, this foundation is her go-to when full coverage is desired. She describes it as "everything someone with dry skin would want out of a formula: breathable, doesn’t seep into fine lines or accentuate dryness, and leaves you with a subtle dewy finish that’ll trick anyone and everyone into thinking you were born with richly hydrated, plump skin."
The Pat McGrath Skin Fetish: Sublime Perfection Weightless Foundation is another highly regarded buildable option, capable of transitioning from a sheer tint to medium coverage with additional layers. Sophia Panych, in her late thirties, finds this foundation to be a reliable choice. "It’s something I can still use in my late (late) 30s and feel good about how it looks," she says. "It doesn’t accentuate fine lines or texture and leaves your skin with the fresh glow of your 20s."
For those who prefer heavier coverage but wish to adapt their existing formulas, makeup artist Vincent Oquendo suggests modifying application techniques. "A makeup brush is going to give you a heavier application, so let’s say you’re self-conscious about dark spots or texture, apply your full-coverage formula with a damp Beautyblender to sheer it out, then spot treat using a full-coverage concealer or a color corrector," he advises.
Thriving in Your Forties and Fifties: Prioritizing Hydration and Texture
As individuals enter perimenopause and menopause, skin can experience increased dryness, a loss of radiance, and reduced firmness, with fine lines and wrinkles becoming more pronounced. Makeup application at this stage, particularly over the age of 50, becomes highly individualized. Eldridge points out that skin can become drier, while some who have always had normal skin might find themselves experiencing increased oiliness, and others may develop rosacea. "In general, it’s switching it up to finding the textures that work well for you," she emphasizes.
Briceno concurs, stating, "In your forties and fifties, foundation stops being mostly about coverage and starts being much more about texture, movement, and light." The focus shifts to lightweight formulas that plump the skin and avoid settling into fine lines. Oquendo cautions against foundations marketed as dewy or radiant, as they can break down more quickly and settle into lines. However, for those who prefer a luminous finish, Briceno recommends strategic application on the high points of the face, such as the cheekbones. "Too much dew all over the face can start looking oily by midday and can make texture more visible close up," he warns.
Dr. Henry, herself in her forties, favors the Kosas Revealer Skin-Improving Foundation, which is infused with hyaluronic acid. Briceno frequently recommends the Armani Luminous Silk Foundation for clients over 40, noting its non-heavy texture, excellent staying power, and skin-like finish. Leslie Lipton, Allure‘s Senior Copy Manager, who is in her sixties, echoes this sentiment. "It’s so glowy, and gives me just the right amount of medium coverage that can easily be blurred out," she says. "Most important for me, it doesn’t sink into those more-than-pesky fine lines around my eyes and mouth."
When considering coverage, Eldridge reiterates that there are no rigid rules for this age group. "It depends on your needs, everyone’s different," she states. Some individuals may require more coverage in specific areas due to hyperpigmentation like melasma, while others may notice new shadows and lines. This is where the realization dawns that foundation is not a singular solution. Eldridge suggests, "Strategic placement of concealer or highlighter can work really well to lift shadows in areas like the corners of the mouth."
In the fifties and sixties, and indeed at any age, makeup can remain a source of joy and self-expression. However, the approach to the base may benefit from a more refined strategy. "Ten years ago, I would have worn heavier coverage to camouflage zits and unevenness. Now, it’s just a little bit for touchups. I’m all about the glow and lightness," shares Lipton.
Beyond a pared-back application, Briceno advises focusing on intentional placement and application rather than all-over coverage. Eldridge advocates for building coverage gradually in thin layers, a technique that yields the most seamless results while enhancing, rather than masking, one’s natural beauty.
Embracing Cushion Foundations in Your Sixties and Beyond
For clients in their sixties and beyond, makeup artists like Frank B. often turn to hydrating cushion foundations. Formulas such as the TIRTIR Mask Fit Red Cushion Foundation or the Clé de Peau Beauté Radiant Cushion Foundation are favored for their ability to create a thin, luminous layer on the skin with the puff applicator. "Cushion foundations easily create a thin, glowing layer on the skin with the puff applicator," he explains. "I aim for light to mid coverage for skin that is starting to thin." The puff applicator also aids in concentrating pigment where needed most, such as under the eyes or on areas of hyperpigmentation, helping to avoid the cakey appearance that can result from over-application.
Many individuals over 60 opt to forgo foundation altogether, a choice embraced by Allure contributor Valerie Monroe. "I like to keep my makeup routine as simple as possible, and I think my skin looks better without [foundation]," she says. Monroe has been using a prescription retinoid for over two decades and credits it with maintaining her skin’s integrity and elasticity. At 75, she observes, "I still have some jowling and other gifts of aging, but the texture of my complexion is pretty healthy-looking and bright. I don’t need to camouflage that." This perspective underscores the evolving relationship with makeup as one ages, where skincare often takes precedence, and makeup serves to enhance rather than conceal.
The journey of finding the right foundation is a continuous one, adapting to the subtle yet significant changes our skin undergoes throughout life. By understanding these shifts and consulting with experts, individuals can navigate the beauty market with confidence, selecting products and techniques that best celebrate their skin at every age.
