On the vibrant morning of their sophomore fashion show, "Speakeasy," the Swedish design trio Leona Lundback, Leon Lindgren, and Mira Leff were palpably buzzing with an energy that reverberated through their pre-show preparations. As designers for their burgeoning brand, LLL, they were dialing in for an off-schedule presentation, strategically timed to coincide with the broader buzz of Stockholm Fashion Week. Lundback, embodying the dual role of designer and runway model, sat amidst the organised chaos, rollers still in their hair, a testament to the meticulous, hands-on approach that defines LLL. The collective excitement was infectious, fueled by the anticipation of "a big crowd" eager to witness their third collection, a pivotal moment for a brand rapidly carving out a distinctive niche in the global fashion landscape.
The Genesis of a Collective: From Oslo to Stockholm’s Avant-Garde
The collaborative journey of Lundback, Lindgren, and Leff began not in the established fashion hubs, but within the formative years of their education at Stenebyskola, a state-funded fashion institution renowned for its progressive curriculum, located just outside Oslo. Their initial forays into design were characterised by an organic, self-reliant spirit. As Lundback recounted, "We started small in Oslo by self-styling and starring in our own shoots." This period of intimate experimentation allowed their individual creative voices to develop while simultaneously revealing an undeniable synergy. The blurred lines between their distinct design pieces, often "mistaken for each other’s," signalled a nascent, shared aesthetic. This convergence of vision reached a critical juncture in 2024 when the trio collectively relocated to Stockholm. It was in this new, more dynamic urban environment that they resolved to formally unite their talents, giving birth to LLL, a brand poised to challenge and redefine contemporary Swedish fashion.
The decision to form LLL was not merely a logistical one but a profound commitment to a shared artistic philosophy. Moving to Stockholm, a city that, while known for its design heritage, often leaned towards a minimalist aesthetic, presented both a challenge and an opportunity. They aimed to inject a new narrative, one that celebrated maximalist expression and deep-seated storytelling. Their early experiences of self-styling and direct engagement with their creations laid the groundwork for a brand that inherently understood the power of visual narrative and personal expression, elements that would become cornerstones of their future collections.
"Speakeasy": A Dystopian Glamour on the Runway
LLL’s third collection, aptly titled "Speakeasy," staged within the industrial grandeur of the Färgfabriken art gallery, served as a powerful testament to their evolving artistic vision. This choice of venue, a former paint factory now a vibrant cultural hub, underscored the brand’s commitment to juxtaposing raw, urban spaces with sophisticated, conceptual fashion. The collection, comprising 25 meticulously crafted runway looks, was a profound exploration of resistance, an overarching theme deeply rooted in the trio’s lived experiences and observations of the contemporary socio-political climate.
The inspiration for "Speakeasy" was a rich tapestry woven from diverse historical and cultural threads. At its core lay the notion of underground defiance, drawing parallels to illicit gathering places that provided sanctuary during times of prohibition or oppression. This conceptual framework was vividly brought to life through archetypes presented on the runway: from sweat-drenched party-goers, embodying hedonistic escapism, to sailors fresh off the docks, symbolising transient freedom, and even "middle class, stiff upper lip women who dared enter the LLL world," representing a quiet rebellion against societal norms.
Further enriching the collection’s narrative was the decadent allure of Weimar-era cabaret and vaudeville. This period in German history, marked by radical artistic expression and a burgeoning queer subculture amidst political instability, offered a fertile ground for LLL’s exploration of glamour, subversion, and hidden worlds. The razor-sharp cynicism embedded within Bertolt Brecht’s 1928 "Threepenny Opera," particularly the iconic character of "Pirate Jenny," served as a direct muse. Pirate Jenny’s narrative of imagined revenge and the overturning of social hierarchies resonated deeply with LLL’s vision of challenging established orders through creative audacity.
The aesthetic translation of these inspirations was distinctly LLL: spliced corsets, a deconstructed take on historical undergarments, symbolising both restriction and liberation; patterns splashed across pannier skirts, reimagining 18th-century silhouettes with contemporary, often subversive, motifs; and cardboard hats infused with historical Swedish references, bridging traditional craft with avant-garde sculpture. Each piece was a deliberate statement, an "armour for a generation torn between everyday Swedish minimalism and a burning desire for self-expression." This collection was not merely clothing; it was a narrative, a performance, and a declaration of defiance.
Challenging the Scandinavian Aesthetic: A Rebellious Stance
The fashion landscape of Scandinavia has long been synonymous with minimalism, clean lines, and functional design – an aesthetic often celebrated for its understated elegance and practicality. However, LLL actively rebels against this prevailing paradigm, positioning themselves at the "bleeding edge of queer utopian and dystopian expression." Their work consciously moves beyond the restraint typically associated with Nordic design, opting instead for a vibrant, often theatrical, maximalism.
This rebellion is not merely aesthetic; it is philosophical. LLL perceives themselves as architects of identity, crafting garments that serve as "armour" for individuals navigating a world that may not always affirm their existence. Their designs are a direct counterpoint to the quietude of traditional Scandi fashion, offering instead a loud, unapologetic celebration of individuality and fantasy. As the designers noted, "The ‘Speakeasy’ collection is our fun, loud reaction to that restraint." This approach taps into a perceived latent desire within the market. "We think people are secretly longing for it," they assert, suggesting that the established minimalist narrative, while dominant, may not fully cater to the diverse and evolving desires of contemporary consumers.
Fashion critics and industry observers have noted a growing global appetite for brands that offer more than just garments – brands that provide a narrative, a sense of belonging, and an opportunity for self-expression that transcends conventional trends. LLL’s unique position allows them to bridge out of the confines of "regular Scandinavian fashion," offering an alternative that resonates with those seeking bold, imaginative, and deeply personal style statements. Their work suggests that while minimalism has its place, there is a powerful and growing demand for fashion that dares to be extravagant, evocative, and politically charged.
Queer Utopianism as Political Resistance
Central to LLL’s identity and creative output is their collective identification as queer. This lived experience profoundly shapes their brand’s mission, making direct communication and connection with the queer community paramount. Their work transcends mere aesthetics, evolving into a form of political and social commentary, particularly pertinent given the shifting political landscape in Sweden.
Leon Lindgren articulated this concern: "We have seen political change happen in Sweden for about a decade now, [towards] a much more conservative ideal." This trajectory, marked by increasingly conservative policies and rhetoric, has created an environment where the queer community, and other marginalised groups, often feel their spaces and rights are under threat. In response, LLL posits itself as a sanctuary, a sartorial "haven." "The outside world might not feel like it’s built for you, but LLL is," a powerful declaration of solidarity and affirmation.
The concept of "Speakeasy" itself, imagined as a place for "escapism and freedom," directly stems from this political climate. The designers envision a dystopian future where conservative agendas have fully manifested, and their collection becomes a response, a creative act of survival. "Instead of just worrying or commenting on what’s happening, we just imagine," they explain. This act of imagination transforms potential despair into a catalyst for creation. It’s "actually a little soothing" to confront these fears through art, asking: "If everything we fear actually happens in Sweden, what will we do?" LLL’s answer is to build something bigger, bolder, and more vibrant in the underground.
This approach aligns with a broader historical tradition of queer art and fashion serving as a vehicle for resistance, community building, and the envisioning of alternative futures. By operating in the space "between queer utopia and dystopia," LLL harnesses the tension of uncertainty to "create something entirely new apart from reality." Their historical deep-dives, such as into the Weimar Republic, remind us that "creativity leads to radical and beautiful exaggerations" in the face of conservative pushback. LLL’s work is a glamorous declaration that when the state attempts to suppress, the underground thrives, builds, and redefines the party on its own terms.
The Collaborative Genius: "Three Brains in One Organism"
The unique strength of LLL lies not only in its shared vision but also in the dynamic interplay of its three creative voices. Managing a collective artistic endeavour requires a delicate balance of individual expression and unified direction. For Lundback, Lindgren, and Leff, this process has evolved into a highly effective method for their artistic expression, transforming them into "almost one combined person, like three brains inside one organism."
This synergy is forged through rigorous, honest dialogue and a commitment to pushing boundaries. "You have to fight for what you want, which pushes us to explore our boundaries and be incredibly real with each other," they reveal. This demanding, yet ultimately rewarding, process ensures that "everyone has to bring something to the table," fostering a culture of active contribution and mutual challenge.
Their design methodology is intrinsically collaborative, even when individual work is undertaken. "We are allowed to work individually within our process but we never do anything alone." Ideas are freely exchanged, debated, and refined. "The magic happens when we edit those thoughts into one and react to each other’s work." This iterative process is evident in their physical workspace: "If there is a piece in the studio, we all gather around it and react." New silhouettes emerge from the combination of diverse ideas, often transforming initial concepts into something "entirely new." The result is a truly collective output, where "we all have a finger in every single garment," ensuring that each piece embodies the unified spirit of LLL.
For LLL, the narrative and world-building are as fundamental as the garments themselves. "Absolutely. It’s a core method for us," they affirm. Their process begins not with fabric swatches, but with constructing an immersive universe. "Once we built that world we then focus directly on the garments. What world these characters live in and then building a narrative or a story." From this foundational story, a series of crucial questions guide their design decisions: "Who are these people? What are they wearing? What does their wardrobe look like? How do they style it together?" This narrative-first approach ensures that LLL’s collections are not merely aesthetically pleasing but are imbued with depth, character, and a compelling story that resonates far beyond the runway.
Industry Recognition and Future Horizons
LLL’s distinctive vision and compelling narrative have not gone unnoticed within the broader fashion industry. Their burgeoning talent has earned them significant recognition, notably through the support of the Swedish Fashion Council. Last year, LLL was invited to join the council’s prestigious Incubator program, a crucial endorsement that provides emerging brands with invaluable mentorship, resources, and strategic guidance. This program, known for fostering innovation and global potential, has previously supported other notable brands such as Hodakova and August Barron, placing LLL within an elite cohort of promising designers.
This institutional support is vital for independent labels striving to establish themselves in a competitive global market. It not only validates their artistic merit but also provides the structural framework necessary for growth, from production logistics to marketing strategies. For LLL, it signifies a critical step towards solidifying their position as a significant force in contemporary fashion.
Looking towards the future, LLL’s ambitions are as expansive and imaginative as their designs. "We’re taking over the world!" they declare with characteristic zeal. Their vision extends beyond merely creating clothes; it encompasses a desire to "redefine what fashion can be," a bold aspiration that challenges established norms and categories. The trio envisions a multifaceted future, exploring diverse creative avenues simultaneously. "Maybe we want to work with theatre costumes. Maybe we want to design couture, ready-to-wear, or maybe we want to design custom costumes for the National Opera all at the same time." This willingness to traverse different creative domains speaks to their versatile talent and their holistic approach to design.
This dynamic, exploratory spirit is encapsulated in their concluding thought: "What is exciting is that we are still discovering what LLL can be." This openness to evolution and an unyielding commitment to their core values – radical self-expression, queer affirmation, and artistic resistance – position LLL as more than just a fashion brand. They are a cultural phenomenon in the making, poised to leave an indelible mark on the international stage.
Conclusion: LLL’s Enduring Legacy
Leona Lundback, Leon Lindgren, and Mira Leff, through their brand LLL, are not just designing garments; they are crafting universes. Their "Speakeasy" collection, a vivid tapestry of historical homage, political commentary, and unbridled imagination, stands as a testament to their unique position in the fashion world. By consciously rebelling against the minimalist tendencies of traditional Scandinavian design, and by grounding their creative output in queer utopian and dystopian expressions, LLL offers a powerful narrative of resistance and self-affirmation.
Supported by institutions like the Swedish Fashion Council, and driven by a collaborative spirit that merges three distinct voices into one potent force, LLL is on a trajectory to redefine the boundaries of fashion. Their work is a timely reminder that clothing can be more than mere fabric – it can be armour, a sanctuary, and a vibrant declaration of identity in a world increasingly yearning for authentic, meaningful expression. As they continue to explore the vast potential of LLL, their journey promises to be a captivating exploration of creativity, community, and the enduring power of art to challenge and inspire.
