As Benjamin A Huseby and Serhat Işık mark the tenth anniversary of their Berlin-based label, GmbH, founded in the transformative year of 2016, they stand in a moment of profound reflection, celebrating a journey that has redefined the intersection of high fashion, underground culture, and potent socio-political commentary. From their serendipitous meeting on Berlin’s legendary dancefloors, the duo forged a brand concept rooted in collective identity, deliberately eschewing personal recognition by adopting the German acronym "GmbH" (Gesellschaft mit beschränkter Haftung, or limited liability company). This strategic anonymity allowed their garments and their inherent messages to take center stage, establishing a unique voice in an often-homogenized industry.
The Genesis of GmbH: Berlin’s Underground and a New Collective Vision
The year 2016 was a vibrant epoch in Berlin’s cultural landscape, with its underground club scene pulsating with raw energy, attracting artists and free thinkers globally. It was amidst this electric atmosphere that Huseby, a former fashion photographer, and Işık, a menswear graduate, conceived GmbH. Their initial collections were an immediate translation of this environment: body-hugging technical sportswear, provocative PVC trousers with double zip flies, and brawny silhouettes appropriated from industrial workwear. This aesthetic was a direct homage to the city’s throbbing techno beats and the utilitarian style prevalent in its subcultures. The brand quickly garnered attention for its edgy, authentic portrayal of Berlin’s nightlife, resonating with a generation seeking authenticity beyond traditional luxury. The recent Autumn/Winter 2026 runway show, a spectacular light installation staged within a disused Berlin power plant, served as a poignant full-circle moment, returning to the city’s musical roots while exploring its 1980s post-punk scene, demonstrating the enduring influence of sound on their creative process.
Weaving Heritage and Identity into the Fabric
While GmbH’s initial identity was inextricably linked to Berlin’s club culture, Huseby and Işık quickly demonstrated that their vision transcended mere "clubwear" or "streetwear" – labels often reductively applied to brands founded by designers of color. Their work became a profound exploration of their personal histories and a broader narrative of migration and identity. Huseby’s Pakistani-Norwegian heritage and Işık’s Turkish-German background form the fundamental bedrock of the brand’s philosophical and aesthetic DNA.
This commitment to cultural narrative has been a consistent thread throughout their collections. For instance, the Spring/Summer 2018 collection, "Europe Endless," drew direct inspiration from their migrant fathers, who experienced the alienation of being "gastarbeiters" (guest workers) in Germany. This collection subtly critiqued the transient nature of belonging and the othering of immigrant communities, transforming historical socio-political realities into compelling sartorial statements. Subsequent collections, such as Spring/Summer 2023, offered lyrical homages to South Asian beauty, showcasing an appreciation for diverse aesthetics often overlooked by mainstream fashion. Furthermore, their deliberate choice to cast second-generation immigrants in their campaigns wasn’t merely about representation; it was an affirmation of identity, a celebration of hybrid cultures, and a powerful statement against systemic marginalization within the fashion industry. This approach has allowed GmbH to build a deeply engaged audience that values authenticity and meaningful dialogue, distinguishing them from brands that might engage with diversity on a superficial level.
A Decade of Unwavering Activism: From Europe Endless to a Call for Peace
Perhaps GmbH’s most defining characteristic, and one that sets them apart in the often-cautious world of luxury fashion, is their unwavering commitment to political activism. In an industry frequently criticized for its performative gestures or outright silence on global humanitarian crises, Huseby and Işık have consistently leveraged their platform to advocate for justice. The most striking example came during their Autumn/Winter 2024 Paris show, where they delivered a blistering, ten-minute speech addressing the genocide in Gaza. This unprecedented act, delivered amidst widespread industry silence, carried significant reputational and financial risks.
The decision to speak out on such a contentious issue, particularly from a Berlin-based brand in a country with strict laws regarding pro-Palestinian discourse, underscored their profound moral conviction. At a time when many brands prioritized commercial interests over ethical stances, GmbH chose to foreground human rights, demonstrating a rare courage. Benjamin A Huseby explained their approach: "I think because it’s genuine and something we’ve been deeply involved in all our lives. We tread very carefully and don’t make activism into a commercial end. Our fashion and our business are like vehicles to create the changes we want, rather than make a T-shirt to get attention and sell." Serhat Işık added, "I don’t think it has ever been personally beneficial for anyone to talk about Palestine, especially in Germany. But it has brought us closer to the people in Berlin we want to be surrounded by." This act not only solidified their standing as trailblazers but also created a powerful resonance with a community that shares their values, proving that authenticity can foster a deeper connection than commercial expediency.
The Berlin Sound: Music as the Brand’s Pulse
Music remains an elemental force in GmbH’s creative universe, a constant hum that underpins their design philosophy. From the pulsing techno of their early days to the experimental sounds influencing their latest collections, music is not merely an accompaniment but the very genesis of their ideas. "Before we have moodboards, ideas, anything – there’s music," explains Serhat Işık. "Our brains immediately go to music, then his goes to poetry, and mine to silhouettes and patterns. But it always starts with music." This deep connection to sound is intrinsically linked to their Berlin roots, a city synonymous with groundbreaking musical movements.
For their AW26 collection, the designers delved into Berlin’s 1980s post-punk and industrial scene, drawing inspiration from bands like Deutsch Amerikanische Freundschaft (DAF) and Einstürzende Neubauten. This exploration allowed them to revisit the city’s rebellious spirit from a different era, injecting a fresh yet familiar energy into their designs. While acknowledging their personal shift away from the constant presence on dancefloors that characterized their early years, the influence of club culture endures through their network of friends and collaborators who are active in the music scene and continue to wear GmbH. Benjamin Huseby noted a past desire to distance themselves from being solely "Berlin club culture" or "streetwear" designers, a categorization often imposed on Brown designers. This led them to consciously integrate diverse references, from mid-century couture to elements of their own cultures, demonstrating an artistic breadth that transcends narrow labels.
Craft, Community, and Conscious Design
At the heart of GmbH’s enduring success is not just their distinct aesthetic or their political courage, but also a strong sense of community and a commitment to thoughtful design practices. The brand operates with a close-knit circle of friends, collaborators, and muses whose values align seamlessly with their own. This collaborative spirit is evident in the Dazed anniversary feature itself, where various figures from their orbit, including Sven Marquardt, Fatima Al Qadiri, Honey Dijon, and Kim Jones, posed questions to the designers, highlighting the organic, interconnected nature of their creative world.
Beyond their social ethos, GmbH also approaches design with a conscious mind, particularly regarding environmentalism. Benjamin Huseby notes their "frugal" design approach, which Serhat Işık elaborates on: "We have indulged in a lot of old Norwegian jumpers that we’ve reused and merged into new garments. Many of our collections had projects like that, which later evolved into this line we have called demi-couture, where we work from materials that we’ve found." This commitment to upcycling and thoughtful material usage stands as a quiet form of resistance against fast fashion’s wasteful cycles, showcasing how ethical considerations are woven into their production process rather than being an afterthought. This blend of seriousness about their craft and a playful, "goofy" studio dynamic, as Işık describes it, allows them to maintain a grounded and authentic approach to their work.
Navigating the Evolving Fashion Landscape
In the ten years since GmbH’s inception, the fashion industry has undergone significant shifts, a reality not lost on Huseby and Işık. Robin Meason, Global PR Director for Balenciaga, questioned them on these changes. Benjamin Huseby reflected on a positive development: "There was definitely a period where inclusivity and diversity truly changed and had a great impact on how fashion appears." This acknowledgment highlights GmbH’s own contribution to broadening representation and challenging traditional beauty standards within the industry. However, Huseby also pointed to a less favorable trend: "on the flip side, when we started out there was a lot of interest in independent brands, and now attention has really gone to the big conglomerates and brands. It’s all about being bigger."
This observation underscores a significant challenge for independent labels like GmbH, which must continually innovate and maintain their distinct voice amidst the growing dominance of larger fashion groups. Despite this, GmbH’s consistent output, its clear brand identity, and its loyal community have allowed it to thrive. Their ability to remain successful while openly critiquing the industry, as noted by Ahmad Swaid, Editor-in-Chief of Dazed MENA, is a testament to their genuine approach. They demonstrate that integrity and commercial viability are not mutually exclusive, even when confronting sensitive political issues.
Beyond the Runway: The Personal Lives and Inspirations of Huseby and Işık
While their professional lives are deeply intertwined with the intense demands of the fashion calendar and profound social commentary, Huseby and Işık also reveal glimpses into their personal worlds, offering a humanizing counterpoint to their public personas. When asked about how they find fun, Serhat Işık mentioned recently taking up archery, and celebrating a friend’s birthday with food, saunas, games, and life drawing in Brandenburg, outside Berlin. He also confessed to watching "Real Housewives" (Atlanta, Beverly Hills, and Salt Lake City). Benjamin Huseby, describing himself as "very serious," admitted to K-pop dance classes for fun, playfully dismissing the "Real Housewives" suggestion. These details paint a picture of individuals who balance intense creative and political work with personal pursuits and social connections.
Their muses also reflect their diverse backgrounds and artistic sensibilities. Işık admires Zeki Müren, the flamboyant Turkish singer and actor, as an inspiring queer figure within a religious context. Huseby finds inspiration in Abida Parveen, a Pakistani Sufi singer, and Gunvor Hofmo, a queer Norwegian modernist poet, highlighting the blend of their specific cultural and artistic influences. These personal touchstones underscore the authentic wellspring from which their collections and ethos emerge.
The Enduring Legacy: Why it Was All Worth It
As GmbH steps into its second decade, the founders reflect on the arduous journey. Stefano Pilati, a respected designer, directly asked, "Would you do it all again?" Serhat Işık’s immediate, visceral response was "no," acknowledging the immense difficulty: "This is probably the hardest thing we’ve done in our lives. It requires a little bit of naivety." However, he quickly tempered this with a profound realization: "But then, if you think about everything that’s happened in those ten years, you know, it was worth it." Benjamin A Huseby echoed this sentiment, admitting, "You have to be a bit delusional to do this. So, yeah, maybe. Maybe not, but maybe."
This complex answer encapsulates the essence of GmbH’s journey: a demanding, often isolating path fraught with challenges, yet ultimately rewarding. The "worth it" comes from the moments of "something sublime," as Huseby describes, when clothes and music converge in a show, creating an almost transcendent sensation. More importantly, it comes from the profound impact they have had – fostering community, advocating for marginalized voices, and demonstrating that fashion can be a powerful tool for change. The positive reactions to their activism, as noted by model Debra Shaw, affirm that their efforts resonate deeply, making the sacrifices worthwhile. GmbH’s first ten years have solidified its position not just as a fashion label, but as a cultural force, bravely navigating the complexities of identity, politics, and creativity with unwavering honesty and a deep-seated commitment to a better world.
