HBO’s critically acclaimed drama Euphoria has returned for its highly anticipated third season, ushering in a significant five-year time jump that places its characters in the "real world" and grappling with profound existential questions. As makeup department head Donni Davy revealed in an interview during the final days of filming, "For better or for worse, everyone’s kind of trying to find God." This shift in focus is mirrored by substantial changes behind the scenes, including a new musical score by Hans Zimmer, replacing Labrinth’s signature atmospheric melodies, and the addition of Colleen Atwood as co-producer, influencing wardrobe direction now overseen by Natasha Newman-Thomas. Despite the show’s inherent darkness, the visual palette of the first episode is notably brighter, featuring sun-drenched California landscapes and vibrant interiors, evoking an epic Western feel that contrasts with the dreamy, neon-coated aesthetic of its earlier seasons.
The narrative continues to explore the complex struggles of its young adult protagonists, with Rue, portrayed by Zendaya, still entangled in the drug trade. Showrunner Sam Levinson has emphasized the ongoing relevance of the opioid crisis in America, particularly the pervasive impact of fentanyl, a theme underscored by the tragic passing of Angus Cloud, who played Fezco, in 2023. Levinson articulated that season three loosely alludes to the "surrender" step in the 12-step recovery program, a sentiment echoed in the pre-premiere taglines like "May God have mercy."
The Enduring Power of Euphoria’s Makeup
Central to Euphoria‘s visual identity has been its groundbreaking makeup, a domain meticulously crafted by Donni Davy since the show’s inception in 2019. Levinson’s initial directive to Davy was to create looks that would compel viewers to "pause the show and study," a challenge she embraced without compromising the series’ thematic depth. In season one, Davy drew inspiration from the late 1960s pastel palettes and winged liner, alongside 1970s glam rock, 1980s elongated cat eyes, and 1990s grunge liner. The phrase "Euphoria makeup," now synonymous with opulent gemstones, razor-sharp winged liner, and glittering tears, has captivated audiences and inspired countless fans to experiment with their own artistry. Google Trends data indicates a peak in searches for "euphoria makeup" in 2022 following season two, with a notable surge in the week leading up to the third season’s April 12th release, highlighting its continued cultural resonance.
During a previous visit to the show’s makeup trailer in 2021, the author witnessed firsthand the fervent interest in Euphoria‘s makeup. This behind-the-scenes glimpse provided insight into the products used on the cast and an early look at Half Magic, the makeup brand Davy launched in collaboration with A24. The author’s subsequent social media posts detailing on-screen foundation choices and the rationale behind Sydney Sweeney’s character Cassie’s perpetually dewy appearance garnered over 35,000 Instagram followers in a single day, underscoring the immense fan engagement with the show’s aesthetic.
Season Three: A Shift Towards "Capital G Glam"
Returning to the makeup trailer in November 2025, as season three filming concluded, revealed a clandestine atmosphere. Code names like "LA Nights" and "10 Commandments" were employed to maintain secrecy on set. While the show’s production has seen significant evolution, the makeup remains a cornerstone. Davy confirmed that season three marks a return to "capital G glam," a departure from the more subdued looks of season two. However, this iteration of glamour is not characterized by the bold colors and rhinestones of the early seasons. Instead, it leans into a nostalgic Hollywood aesthetic, paying homage to iconic looks from both past and present.
"It’s not as experimental," Davy explained. "In high school, there was tons of glitter. There’s also tons of glitter in season three, but the girls are grown up, and the creative vision is different. Sam [Levinson] wanted me to do my version of traditional glam—Hollywood glam."
A crucial element for this season’s makeup was high contrast. This decision stemmed from the specific film stock used, which amplified contrast on camera, potentially causing makeup elements to appear blown out or alter their color. Davy observed this phenomenon in the raw footage ("dailies") and recognized the need to elevate certain looks. "We need cunt-ery here," she stated, emphasizing the necessity to "go hard." This sentiment is evident in the application of dark lip liners with nude lipsticks and the stark contrast of red lips with exaggerated black eyeliners.
Iconic Inspirations and Thematic Resonance
Davy’s mood boards, which adorned every surface of the trailer, showcased a diverse range of inspirations. References spanned from 1990s Pamela Anderson and Y2K makeup trends to subtle nods to the 1960s. For specific characters and scenes, inspirations included Hustler and Playboy spreads, annotated with Davy’s notes like "red nails, simple eyes, classic lips" and "super glowy—NO POWDER." The boards also featured an array of models and celebrities such as Kate Moss, Rihanna, Sabrina Carpenter, and Gabriette. Davy summarized the season’s aesthetic as "sparkly, luscious, juicy, glam," framing it as "a campaign against the ‘clean girl’ aesthetic. That’s my inspiration. It’s big, unapologetic glam."
Davy’s creative process involves immersing herself in the scripts to envision a character’s journey and design their look accordingly. For Jules (Hunter Schafer), this season’s aesthetic includes bleached brows and a core palette of red, silver, and black. Davy envisioned Jules having a "deranged moment at home," complete with a Pat McGrath Labs peel-off mask applied over her makeup, which she would then peel off on camera. This imaginative approach to makeup application, directly tied to character narrative, is a hallmark of Davy’s work.
Evolving Character Looks and Makeup Trends
Maddy’s "Hustler Era" and Corporate Glamour
Maddy, portrayed by Alexa Demie, has transitioned into an assistant role in Hollywood, working with a top manager while navigating financial constraints. Her makeup this season reflects an aspiration to fit into this more professional environment. Davy observed, "Her inner light has gone out." In her "hustler era," Maddy’s makeup is more subdued, characterized by matte, colorless tones. "She’s trying to be more grown-up—all business, no frills," Davy noted. This starkly contrasts with her high school persona, where her makeup was a "theatrical performance," playful and reflective of her multifaceted personality. The shift towards a more muted palette, featuring matte textures and subtle color palettes, signals Maddy’s attempt to be taken seriously in a corporate setting, a strategic move to project professionalism.
However, Demie was heavily involved in Maddy’s looks, pushing for a more traditional glam approach. Davy described this as an "unapologetic, bold version of something traditional," a new direction for Euphoria. The "double-winged liner" seen in episode two, inspired by Italian actresses and French-Italian actress Edwige Fenech, creates an "upward, feline" shape. To achieve this look, Davy suggests a matte brown cream eyeshadow base, followed by a taupe powder shadow for a velvety finish. Half Magic products, such as the Flik Liquid Eyeliner Pen and Flik Eraser Correcting Pen, were instrumental in creating Maddy’s signature double wings.
Cassie’s "Vixen" Persona and Bridal Beauty
Cassie (Sydney Sweeney) undergoes a significant transformation this season, forging her own beauty direction as a "vixen," reminiscent of classic pin-ups and "video girls." Davy cites Brigitte Bardot as a constant inspiration for Cassie’s mood boards. The elaborate makeup and body makeup application for Cassie now requires up to two hours before filming, a testament to the intensity of her new persona. Her pursuit of a $50,000 wedding to Nate underscores her performative approach to beauty, driven by a "male gaze," as Davy put it. However, Davy’s intention is to create looks that female viewers will admire and emulate.
Cassie’s bridal look in episode three, "The Ballad of Palidin," was designed to be "pretty makeup" with "piercing eyes" that would be visible through her veil. Davy emphasized the waterline with a brown tone, a technique intended to enhance her expressive eyes, particularly as she anticipates welling up with tears. The look was inspired by the idea of "Cassie Wedding Barbie," a blend of sweet and aspirational. For the reception, Cassie’s eyeshadow transitioned to a sparkling baby blue, referencing a moment from season two where she declared her love for Nate. The inclusion of body glitter and pearlescent nails with floating gems further amplified her bridal aesthetic.
Lexi’s Maturation and Hollywood Glamour
Lexi (Maude Apatow), who in previous seasons was a more understated presence with minimal makeup, embraces her own version of Hollywood glamour in season three. Davy describes Lexi’s new look as "banging glam," featuring not just a statement lip but a complete ensemble of lashes and a polished finish. Her brick-red lipstick and subtle wings, inspired by her vintage ’70s wardrobe, signify a more mature and deliberate approach to her appearance. "We wanted a more mature version of her high school red-lip look," Davy explained, emphasizing Lexi’s desire to appear well-rested and professionally put-together.
Jules’ Minimalist Evolution
While not appearing in the first episode, Jules (Hunter Schafer) undergoes a shift towards a more minimalist aesthetic in season three, reflecting the seriousness of her current life circumstances. Davy described her look as "not colorful" and "not happy." This pared-down approach contrasts with her more experimental and vibrant makeup from previous seasons, signaling a more introspective phase for the character.
Technical Innovations and Thematic Underpinnings
The Impact of Film Stock on Makeup Design
The choice of film stock for season three significantly influenced makeup application. As Davy noted, the stock’s high contrast required makeup artists to intensify colors and lines to ensure they registered effectively on camera. This necessitated a move towards more high-contrast looks, such as bold lip liners and sharply defined eyeliners, to avoid makeup appearing washed out or losing its intended impact.
Prosthetics and Special Effects
Season three is noted for its extensive use of prosthetics, particularly in scenes involving physical trauma. The severed pinky toe and finger of Nate Jacobs (Jacob Elordi) required meticulous attention to detail, with multiple prosthetic limbs created by Vincent Van Dyke Effects. These lifelike prosthetics, complete with hair punching and realistic paint jobs, were crucial for achieving the visceral impact of these scenes. The application of fake blood through internal tubing within the prosthetics further enhanced the realism. The cost of these specialized effects underscores the show’s commitment to visual storytelling.
The Significance of Color: Pink as a Tender Hue
The recurring use of pink throughout season three carries specific thematic weight. Davy interprets pink as a "tender color," signifying the vulnerability of characters like Cassie and Kitty. Unlike blues and purples, which can convey fierceness, pink shimmer is described as "sweet and innocent," offering a subtle yet powerful emotional cue. For Kitty, a dancer at the Silver Slipper, her pink eye makeup is designed to appear subtle from a distance but reveal its delicate shimmer upon closer inspection, reflecting her sincere and genuine nature.
Episode-Specific Beauty Breakdowns
Episode 1: "New Beginnings"
The season premiere establishes the new aesthetic, with characters embracing more mature and sophisticated looks. Cassie’s transformation into a "blonde bombshell" with a heavily tanned complexion and makeup inspired by Brigitte Bardot, 1960s glamour, and 90s Pamela Anderson is a standout. Davy described this look as "dreamy trashy," a deliberate choice to convey confidence and allure.
Episode 2: "American My Dream"
This episode delves deeper into Maddy’s "evil" persona, with her makeup reflecting a more subdued, yet still powerful, presence. The "mob wife meets old Hollywood" aesthetic, featuring visible lip liner and double-winged liner, highlights her desire for control and authority. Jules makes her first appearance with a radical hair change and a makeup look that incorporates black liner on her lower waterline and light blue eyeshadow, a combination that signifies her evolving identity.
Episode 3: "The Ballad of Palidin"
Nate and Cassie’s wedding provides a dramatic backdrop for several striking beauty moments. Cassie’s bridal makeup is designed to be "pretty" with "piercing eyes," while her reception look features a sparkling blue eyeshadow, a callback to her declaration of love for Nate. Maddy opts for a dramatic burgundy smoky eye, described as "eye-makeup armor," to navigate the wedding’s tense atmosphere. Nail artist Caroline Cotten’s designs for Cassie and Maddy add another layer of visual storytelling.
Episode 4: "Kitty Likes to Dance"
The introduction of Kitty brings a new character whose makeup reflects her sincerity and sweetness. Cassie undergoes a dramatic makeover, with her makeup and hair embodying the "dreamy trashy" aesthetic. Maddy’s use of shimmering blue eyeshadow at a TikTok party is presented as the antithesis of Cassie’s more girlish style, symbolizing their complex dynamic.
Episode 5: "This Little Piggy"
Cassie’s evolution into a full-time OnlyFans creator is reflected in her "blonde bombshell" look, complete with voluminous hair inspired by Farrah Fawcett and Barbarella. Maddy’s hair adopts a "film noir" style, described as "a little dark and a little sinister," aligning with her developing character arc. The episode also features the intricate special effects used to create Nate’s prosthetic limbs, highlighting the show’s dedication to realistic portrayal of physical trauma.
The ongoing dialogue between the cast, crew, and makeup artists, particularly Davy and hair department head Kim Kimble, emphasizes the collaborative effort behind Euphoria‘s distinct visual language. As season three unfolds, these meticulously crafted aesthetics will continue to serve as a powerful narrative tool, reflecting the characters’ internal landscapes and their evolving journeys through the complexities of adulthood.
