HBO’s critically acclaimed drama Euphoria has returned, ushering in its third season with a significant temporal leap and a profound thematic shift. The characters, now navigating adulthood, find themselves immersed in the "real world," a transition eloquently summarized by makeup department head Donni Davy: "everyone’s kind of trying to find God." This evolution extends beyond the narrative, impacting the show’s aesthetic, creative team, and its resonant exploration of contemporary issues. The departure of original composer Labrinth, whose evocative scores defined the series’ first two seasons, has been met with the appointment of Hans Zimmer to helm the musical landscape. Furthermore, the renowned costume designer Colleen Atwood has stepped into a co-producer role, influencing wardrobe direction, now overseen by Natasha Newman-Thomas following Heidi Bivens’ exit.
Despite the series’ consistently dark undertones, season three presents a visually brighter palette. The inaugural episode showcases sun-drenched California vistas and richly decorated interiors, such as Lexi’s apartment and the opulent residence of Nate and Cassie. These shifts in visual and auditory design lend the season an epic, Western-like quality, a departure from the dreamy, neon-infused ambiance of its predecessors. However, the core dramatic threads remain taut. Rue, portrayed by Zendaya, continues her entanglement with the drug trade, a persistent theme that showrunner Sam Levinson has emphasized as central to the season’s exploration of the ongoing opioid crisis in America. Levinson has candidly addressed the profound impact of Angus Cloud’s untimely death in 2023, the actor who so memorably embodied Fez. The pervasive influence of fentanyl, identified as the leading cause of drug-related fatalities in the United States, is a somber undercurrent throughout the season. Levinson has indicated that season three alludes to the third step of the 12-step recovery program – "Surrender your will and life to the care of your higher power" – a concept echoed in promotional taglines such as "May God have mercy."
The Enduring Power of Makeup: Davy’s Vision for Euphoria
Central to Euphoria‘s enduring appeal is its groundbreaking makeup artistry, a domain masterfully curated by Donni Davy since the show’s inception in 2019. Levinson’s initial directive to Davy was to create looks so striking they would compel viewers to pause and analyze them, all while seamlessly integrating with the narrative’s thematic depth. In the show’s debut season, Davy drew inspiration from the late 1960s’ pastel palettes and winged liner, the glam rock of the 1970s, the exaggerated cat eyes of the 1980s, and the grunge aesthetic of the 1990s. The term "Euphoria makeup," now synonymous with shimmering gemstones, razor-sharp winged eyeliner, and glitter-laden tears, has profoundly influenced audiences, inspiring countless fans to experiment with their own cosmetic expressions. This cultural impact is quantifiable; Google Trends data reveals that searches for "euphoria makeup" peaked in 2022 following the second season’s release, and a significant surge was observed in the week preceding the third season’s premiere on April 12th.
The fervor surrounding Euphoria makeup is palpable, as evidenced by this reporter’s personal experience. A 2021 tour of the show’s makeup trailer provided an intimate glimpse into the tools and techniques employed by Davy, who has cultivated a substantial social media following due to her work on the series. This visit also offered a preview of Half Magic, the makeup brand Davy launched in collaboration with A24, underscoring the studio’s vested interest in her creative vision. The subsequent social media content generated from this visit led to a remarkable increase of over 35,000 Instagram followers in a single day, solely from reporting on details such as Zendaya’s onscreen foundation choices and the deliberate creation of Sydney Sweeney’s character Cassie’s perpetually "sweaty" appearance.
Behind the Scenes: Secrecy and Glamour in the Makeup Trailer
The invitation to return to the makeup trailer for season three at the conclusion of filming in November 2025 offered a privileged vantage point into the clandestine world of Euphoria‘s production. "Base camp," situated on a secured lot in downtown Los Angeles, was enveloped in an atmosphere of strict confidentiality. Trailer doors bore the code name "LA Nights," a nod to Lexi’s role as an assistant this season, while yellow production signage proclaimed "10 Commandments," a further measure to maintain filming secrecy. The identities of those on set remained undisclosed, yet the primary objective was clear: to ascertain whether the season would deliver the signature Euphoria makeup spectacle audiences had come to expect, or if the passage of time would necessitate a more mature, understated aesthetic.
The good news, according to Davy, is that season three marks a return to "capital G glam," a significant shift from the more subdued looks of season two. However, this iteration of glamour eschews the overt boldness of rhinestones and vibrant colors introduced in 2019. Instead, Davy’s vision embraces a nostalgic take on Hollywood makeup, drawing inspiration from iconic looks of the past. "It’s not as experimental," Davy notes. "In high school, there was tons of glitter. There’s also tons of glitter in season three, but the girls are grown up, and the creative vision is different. Sam [Levinson] wanted me to do my version of traditional glam – Hollywood glam."
The Impact of Film Stock: Achieving High Contrast
A critical element influencing the season’s makeup aesthetic was the specific film stock utilized, which amplified contrast on camera. This technical choice meant that makeup elements could appear overexposed or shift in color, a phenomenon Davy identified during her review of the daily footage. To counteract this, Davy recognized the need to intensify the makeup. "We need cunt-ery here," she states, "we need to go hard." This directive translated into a deliberate emphasis on high contrast, whether through dark lip liner paired with nude lipstick or bold red lips contrasted with exaggerated black eyeliner.
Nostalgia and the "Anti-Clean Girl" Aesthetic
Davy’s mood boards for season three are a testament to her eclectic inspirations, featuring references ranging from ’90s-era Pamela Anderson and Y2K makeup trends to subtle nods to the 1960s. The trailer walls are adorned with imagery from Hustler and Playboy magazines, accompanied by Davy’s handwritten annotations like "red nails, simple eyes, classic lips," "super glowy – NO POWDER," and "babydoll lashes." These visual collages also include looks sported by models and celebrities such as Kate Moss, Rihanna, Sabrina Carpenter, and Gabriette. "The makeup overall is sparkly, luscious, juicy, glam," Davy declares. "It’s like a campaign against the ‘clean girl’ aesthetic. That’s my inspiration. It’s big, unapologetic glam."
Davy’s creative process involves deeply understanding the characters’ journeys. After reading the scripts, she visualizes their current life stages to inform their makeup designs. For Jules (Hunter Schafer), the season’s aesthetic involves bleached brows and a core palette of red, silver, and black. Davy envisioned a "deranged moment at home" for Jules, where she might apply a Pat McGrath Labs peel-off mask over her makeup and then peel it off on camera, stretching it. "These are the things I imagine the characters doing, and it helps me figure out what to do," Davy explains. "If there’s no imagination or story or passion for me, it’s hard to get inspired."
Key Makeup Trends for Season Three
Several prominent makeup trends define season three:
- Inner-Corner Wings: Sharply defined eyeliners, particularly those extending from the inner corners of the eyes, are a significant feature.
- Brown Tightliner: The use of brown liner along the waterline is prevalent, aiming to create a more intense and piercing gaze. "Everyone is tightlined," Davy emphasizes. "I really want the eyes to be super-fucking piercing."
- Frosty Lips: A return to shimmering, frosty lip finishes is evident.
- Body Shimmer: Generous application of body shimmer adds an ethereal glow.
- Blue Eyeshadow: This shade serves as a thematic throughline for characters experiencing emotional turmoil or embodying an "extra" persona.
- Elaborate Nail Sets: The season features an increased number of meticulously designed nail sets, commissioned from artist Caroline Cotten.
Each character possesses a distinct aesthetic tailored to their evolved circumstances. Cassie, who in season two emulated Maddy and Jules, now carves out her own "vixen" identity, drawing inspiration from pin-up models and classic Hollywood. Davy notes that Brigitte Bardot frequently appears on her mood boards for Cassie. While a Cassie look previously took under an hour, Sydney Sweeney’s preparation for season three involved a two-hour session for full-body makeup, reflecting Cassie’s meticulous efforts to manifest her envisioned wedding to Nate, even if it means resorting to platforms like OnlyFans to fund her aspirations. Davy describes Cassie’s makeup as "very performative," designed to attract the "male gaze," yet her intention is to create looks that resonate with and inspire female viewers.
Maddy, now an assistant in Hollywood, projects an image of aspiration through her makeup, even as her personal life faces challenges. "Her inner light has gone out," Davy observes. In her "hustler era," Maddy’s look is characterized by a subdued, matte color palette, reflecting her ambition to be taken seriously in a professional environment. This contrasts sharply with her high school persona, where her makeup was a "theatrical performance," a playful exploration of her multifaceted identity. Davy believes Maddy strategically employs her makeup skills to command respect, understanding that a "purple sparkly eye" might not align with her professional goals. Alexa Demie, the actor portraying Maddy, was actively involved in shaping her character’s looks, favoring a more traditional glam approach. Davy explains, "Because it’s Maddy and me and my team, we get this unapologetic, bold version of something traditional. This style of makeup is new for Euphoria because we’re not usually bringing in traditional styles of makeup."
Rue, whose appearance in previous seasons often reflected her struggles with addiction, is depicted with a healthier glow this season, utilizing MAC Face and Body foundation and Half Magic Dew Lock Setting Spray. While moments of disheveled appearance are infrequent, she sports more conventional makeup, such as brown eyeliner at the wedding scene.
Lexi (Maude Apatow), who previously favored a minimalist approach with occasional red lips, now embraces a sophisticated Hollywood glamour. Davy describes Lexi’s look as "banging glam—not just a statement lip—but lashes, the whole shebang." Her brick-red lipstick and subtle wings represent a more mature iteration of her signature red lip, drawing inspiration from vintage ’70s fashion. Davy elaborates, "We wanted a more mature version of her high school red-lip look. Clearly, she’s really into this formal attire, so we thought she would have a real makeup routine, too, that she’s been working on and perfecting. She wants to look well-rested. She is definitely not showing up to work with no makeup."
Jules, although absent from the initial episode, will feature a more minimalist aesthetic this season, a reflection of her serious life circumstances. "It’s not colorful," Davy states. "It’s not happy."
The season also prominently features prosthetic work, described by Davy as "the most prosthetic-heavy and glam-heavy of all the seasons." This contrasts with season one, which was primarily eye-focused with minimal foundation and lip gloss, with only Alexa Demie utilizing lip liner. Season three, conversely, is characterized by "full, head-to-toe glam."
Episode-by-Episode Breakdown: The Artistry of Season Three
Episode 1: "New Beginnings"
The premiere episode emphasizes skin, with Davy opting for Suqqu foundation, praised for its satin finish and buildable coverage. This is blended with Saie Super Glowy Gel and applied using a Pawpaw sponge infused with Half Magic Dew Lock Setting Spray for extended wear. For Cassie’s (Sydney Sweeney) sun-kissed appearance, a spray tan is augmented by a mixture of OFRA Cosmetics RCK Red Carpet Color, Westmore Beauty Body Coverage Perfector, Vita Liberata Body Blur, and Hempz Body Lotion. For scenes requiring greater durability, such as intimate moments or wear of white garments, Davy employs alcohol-based body paints, specifically Allied FX Bluebird Iridescent Inks in Cashmere and Bronze Pearl, to impart a shimmering, transfer-proof finish.
Episode 2: "American My Dream"
Episode two delves deeper into Maddy’s character arc, while Jules makes her inaugural appearance with a dramatic hair transformation. Davy describes Maddy as "a little evil this season," a trait subtly conveyed through her makeup during her confrontation with Cassie. Despite the scorching heat, Maddy’s ensemble, including visible lip liner and a distinctive double-winged eyeliner, projects an aura of power, reminiscent of a "mob wife meets old Hollywood." This look was inspired by Italian actresses like Edwige Fenech, with a focus on an upward, feline eye shape. To replicate this at home, Davy suggests a base of matte brown cream eyeshadow (Colourpop Shadow Stix), followed by taupe powder shadow. Half Magic products, including the Flik Liquid Eyeliner Pen and Flik Eraser Correcting Pen for the double wings, the Cheek Fluff in Magic Brownie, and a lip combination of Sculptitude Lip Liner in Seize the Slay and You’re My Taupe, topped with Lip Snuggle in Killah Meows, were instrumental in achieving Maddy’s look.
The season’s commitment to detailed makeup artistry, from the strategic application of body shimmer to the nuanced portrayal of character through color and form, promises a continued dialogue around beauty, identity, and the evolving landscape of television aesthetics. As Euphoria season three unfolds, its makeup remains not merely decorative but a vital narrative tool, reflecting the internal lives and external pressures of its complex characters.
