The landscape of skincare has been significantly reshaped by the emergence of Polyhydroxy Acids (PHAs), a class of chemical exfoliants that offer a potent yet remarkably gentle approach to achieving brighter, smoother skin without compromising the crucial skin barrier. Dermatologists and skincare enthusiasts alike are championing PHAs for their ability to slough away dead skin cells, refine texture, and enhance radiance, all while maintaining skin comfort and hydration. This represents a significant advancement from earlier exfoliating agents, which often necessitated a trade-off between efficacy and skin sensitivity.
PHAs, which include commonly found ingredients like gluconolactone, lactobionic acid, and galactose, are distinguished by their larger molecular structure. This characteristic prevents them from penetrating the epidermis as deeply as their counterparts, Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs). Dr. Mamina Turegano, a board-certified dermatologist based in New Orleans, explains, "PHAs, or polyhydroxy acids, are a type of chemical exfoliant—and what makes them special is that they slough off surface buildup much more gently than other acids." This gentler mechanism makes them an ideal choice for individuals with dry, sensitive, or easily irritated skin.
Beyond their exfoliating properties, PHAs offer additional benefits. "Like alpha hydroxy acids, PHAs work on the skin’s surface to smooth texture and brighten the complexion," notes Dr. Carlos Vieira, a board-certified dermatologist in Philadelphia. "Their larger molecular structures reduce the risk of deep penetration through the epidermis, making them a particularly gentle exfoliating option for dry, sensitive, or easily irritated skin." Furthermore, Dr. Turegano highlights their humectant capabilities: "They also act as humectants, meaning they attract water to the skin." This dual action of exfoliation and hydration leads to a more luminous and well-moisturized complexion with minimized irritation. It is important to note, however, that PHAs are not a direct substitute for Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs) like salicylic acid. BHAs are oil-soluble and effectively penetrate pores to address congestion and excess oil, making them the preferred choice for acne-prone skin.
The Rise of PHA Products: A Multifaceted Approach to Radiant Skin
The increasing popularity of PHAs has led to a proliferation of innovative skincare products designed to harness their benefits. From serums and toners to pads and exfoliants, brands are formulating with PHAs to cater to a diverse range of skin concerns.
Eadem Cashmere Peel Milky Exfoliant & Hydrating Essence: A Best Overall Innovation
Garnering accolades such as a 2024 Best of Beauty Award, the Eadem Cashmere Peel Milky Exfoliant & Hydrating Essence stands out for its comprehensive approach to skin renewal. This product features the brand’s proprietary FastFade Complex, a potent blend that combines gluconolactone with lactic acid, azelaic acid, tranexamic acid, and citric acid. Dr. Vieira explains that this complex "visibly evens skin tone by gently sweeping away dull, pigment-packed surface cells to reveal brighter skin underneath."
This essence is particularly recommended for individuals dealing with post-breakout marks or melasma who are seeking a smoother, more luminous complexion without an extensive routine. "What really makes this formula stand out is how soothing it feels," Dr. Vieira adds. The inclusion of panthenol aids in calming inflammation and supporting the skin barrier, while ingredients like rice water, colloidal oatmeal extract, and glycerin provide an additional layer of comfort. The texture is described as lightweight, milky, and silky, leaving an elegant finish on the skin.
Commerce editor Sarah Han, a tester for the product, shared her positive experience: "Not only do I love the substantial texture of a milky toner, but the Cashmere Peel offers the best of both worlds—hydrating and exfoliating—it really goes above and beyond. It leaves my skin with a visible glow that even my phone camera can pick up, but more importantly, it sloughs away dead skin cells and makes my almightily annoying nose blackheads less noticeable. My skin does feel a bit tacky afterward, but I think it helps my serum, moisturizing sunscreen, and makeup apply all the better and smoother."
Glow Recipe Watermelon Glow PHA + BHA Pore-Tight Toner: Targeting Enlarged Pores
Drawing inspiration from the Korean aqua peel facial, a treatment known for its deep cleansing, exfoliating, and hydrating properties, Glow Recipe’s Watermelon Glow PHA + BHA Pore-Tight Toner offers a gentler at-home alternative. While it may not replicate the dramatic results of an in-office procedure, it effectively guides the skin toward a hydrated, glassy glow with minimal irritation.
Dr. Turegano highlights the strategic combination of ingredients: "The formula combines gentle 3% gluconolactone paired with betaine salicylate (a naturally derived BHA) to clear congested pores." The presence of BHA, commonly known as salicylic acid, allows for effective penetration and clearance of clogged pores due to its oil-soluble nature. Furthermore, "a 62% blend of watermelon extract and cactus water, along with glycerin, hyaluronic acid, and polyglutamic acid, keeps skin feeling soothed, hydrated, and balanced," Dr. Turegano notes.
Senior staff writer Elizabeth Gulino reported, "This exfoliating toner works magic on my pores—I usually apply it with a cotton pad and am left with smooth and hydrated skin. While the scent of watermelon in this product is definitely noticeable, it’s a plus if you’re into fruity, summery fragrances."
SkinCeuticals P-Tiox Serum: Addressing Mature Skin Concerns
The SkinCeuticals P-Tiox Serum, a recipient of a 2025 Best of Beauty Award, represents a sophisticated approach to addressing the multifaceted concerns of mature skin. While its peptide content is notable, the serum’s efficacy in smoothing the skin is further amplified by its PHA formulation. The serum contains 5% gluconolactone, complemented by 5% niacinamide, which works to even out hyperpigmentation and bolster the skin barrier. Additionally, 1% laminaria digitata extract, described by Dr. Rachel Westbay as "derived from sea kelp extract, which delivers antioxidant protection," contributes to the serum’s comprehensive anti-aging benefits.
According to Dr. Turegano, these ingredients collectively target aging skin from multiple angles, improving texture and luminosity while "softening the appearance of expression lines and wrinkles."
Editor in chief Jessica Cruel shared her perspective on the serum’s targeted action: "There is a combination of peptides, niacinamide, and PHA in this serum to help target a very specific sign of aging: expression lines. As someone who loves to laugh, I am particularly concerned about my nasolabial folds a.k.a. smile lines. I use this serum so they don’t get any worse. I have to say, I find my filler is lasting a lot longer in that area. It is not a complete replacement for aesthetic treatments like filler or neurotoxin, but this serum can complement those in-office treatments as maintenance. I like to switch off between this and my retinol."
Some by Mi AHA BHA PHA 30 Days Miracle Truecica Clear Pad: A K-Beauty Staple for Acne
Korean skincare has long been at the forefront of gentle yet effective formulations, and Some By Mi’s AHA BHA PHA 30 Days Miracle Truecica Clear Pads exemplify this philosophy. While potent, these pads are recommended for use once or twice weekly due to their strength. The formulation features lactobionic acid working in conjunction with 0.5% betaine salicylate (a gentler BHA derived from beets), citric acid, and 85% willow bark water to refine texture, unclog pores, and manage excess oil.
The PHA component provides gentle resurfacing and hydration, while tea tree and the brand’s signature Truecica complex, which includes Centella asiatica, work to calm and balance acne-prone and oily skin.
Commerce producer Sarah Hoffmann finds these pads to be an essential tool for skin maintenance: "I treat these toner pads like a first aid kit for my skin. Whenever I’m inconsistent about skin care, the first place the neglect starts to show is around my nose and chin, where I’m prone to clogged pores. Whenever I notice this kind of congestion, a day or two of using these exfoliating pads clears that right up. My skin is pretty sensitive, so I appreciate how these toner pads are perfectly dosed with the right amount of product, so I don’t need to stress about over-exfoliating. The first time I used these after a week of not-so-great skin, I woke up the next day and genuinely thought, ‘Well, that made my skin perfect.’"
The Inkey List PHA Toner: A Gentle Option for Sensitive Skin
The Inkey List has established a reputation for demystifying active ingredients, and their PHA Toner lives up to this principle. The straightforward formula centers on its hero ingredient, gluconolactone, present at a gentle 3% concentration, which aids in smoothing rough skin texture. This is paired with 3% niacinamide to brighten and support the skin barrier. Ingredients like aloe vera and glycerin are included to replenish moisture without stripping the skin.
Dr. Vieira notes that the gentle approach of this toner is particularly beneficial for sensitive skin types and those experiencing redness or rosacea. Contributing commerce writer Christa Joanna Lee elaborated on her experience: "The Inkey List PHA Toner is about as uncomplicated as a toner gets. There’s no sting, no irritation, no sticky residue, and no scent, so it gets to work smoothing away rough, built-up skin without making my sensitive skin unhappy. I did notice a tiny bit of pilling before makeup one morning, but I suspect that had more to do with all the dead skin it was lifting (and me not giving it quite enough time to dry) than the formula itself. Its travel-friendly size makes it easy to bring along wherever you go—I’m almost out for toting this around and definitely need to restock."
Mara Flower Acid Algae Serum: Balancing Exfoliation and Hydration for Uneven Texture
For individuals with dry skin seeking the benefits of exfoliation without compromising hydration, Mara’s Flower Acid Algae Serum offers a compelling solution. The serum combines gluconolactone with 11% lactic acid to smooth texture and remove dull skin cells. It is further enriched with moisturizing ingredients such as squalane, glycerin, and a blend of nourishing botanical oils, including milk thistle seed, black currant, and evening primrose, which replenish lipids during the exfoliation process.
Marine algae and plankton extracts work to support the skin barrier and enhance hydration, while antioxidant-rich flower extracts, such as daisy and hibiscus, contribute to a brighter complexion. This serum also earned a Clean Beauty Award, signifying its formulation in line with strict ingredient standards.
Beauty director Sarah Kinonen shared her routine with the serum: "I use this serum every other night in place of my prescription Tretinoin. After cleansing and before moisturizer, I massage a small pump into my skin from my forehead down my neck. As someone who has easily irritated skin, this never causes the usual side effects I experience with potent serums, like inflammation and/or flaking. Instead, it leaves my skin feeling smooth and looking glowy. I’ll admit that $74 for an exfoliating serum is a bit pricey, but I promise it’s worth the investment! I’ve recommended it to so many friends and family members, and they’ve all agreed with how great the results are."
Frequently Asked Questions about PHAs
Are PHAs good for sensitive skin?
PHAs are widely considered one of the best exfoliating acids for sensitive skin. "Because they have a larger molecular size than AHAs like glycolic acid, they penetrate more slowly and tend to cause less stinging, redness, and irritation while still helping to smooth texture and brighten the skin," says Dr. Turegano. "PHAs have humectant properties, so they attract water to the skin while they exfoliate." This dual action provides exfoliation without the stripping sensation. For those with dry, reactive, or easily irritated skin, PHAs are an excellent starting point. Dr. Vieira advises, "If you’re experiencing any irritation with a PHA though, it’s your body’s way of telling you it’s time to dial back frequency."
Can I use PHAs every day?
For many individuals, daily use of PHAs is possible. "PHAs are gentle enough to be used daily," notes Dr. Turegano. However, the optimal frequency depends on skin type, product strength, and other active ingredients in use. For beginners or those with sensitive skin, Dr. Turegano recommends starting with a few times a week and gradually increasing to daily use as tolerated. Vigilance for signs of over-exfoliation, such as persistent redness, dryness, or stinging, is crucial, and frequency should be adjusted accordingly.
Do PHAs play well with other actives like retinol or vitamin C?
"PHAs generally play very well with other skin-care ingredients, including retinoids and vitamin C," states Dr. Turegano. Their gentler nature makes them less likely to exacerbate irritation when layered with other actives. Nevertheless, for sensitive skin or when combining multiple active ingredients, Dr. Turegano advises, "introducing new products gradually and paying close attention to how your skin responds before increasing frequency."
Meet the Experts
The insights provided in this article are informed by leading dermatologists who are experts in their respective fields. Their guidance underscores the scientific understanding and practical application of PHA-based skincare.
Our Testing and Review Process
.png)
Allure employs a rigorous testing methodology to evaluate beauty products, ensuring comprehensive coverage of ingredients, brand claims, and scientific backing. Our editorial team, including in-house writers and editors, along with external contributors and industry experts in dermatology, cosmetic chemistry, and medicine, meticulously review each product. For this guide to the best PHA products, evaluations focused on ingredient efficacy, packaging, fragrance, texture, and overall product performance. Products were selected based on their excellence across these primary categories. Further details on our reporting and testing procedures can be found on our complete reviews process and methodology page.
Our Staff and Testers
Allure is committed to providing diverse and inclusive product recommendations. Our team comprises writers and editors from a wide range of ages, skin tones, hair textures, genders, and backgrounds. This diversity ensures that our assessments of beauty products are fair and representative, enabling us to confidently recommend products that cater to a broad spectrum of individual needs and concerns.
