The Spring/Summer 2027 men’s collections in Paris concluded amidst a backdrop of record-breaking heatwaves across Europe and a palpable shift in sartorial norms, reaffirming Marie Lueder’s prescient declaration that "men are so back." This season transcended mere garment showcases, morphing into a vibrant cultural commentary on identity, comfort, and the increasingly fluid boundaries of menswear. While celebrities navigated the scorching Parisian sun in provocatively weather-inappropriate ensembles, the runways delivered a series of unexpected turns, from controversial digital personalities opening major shows to an undeniable trend of "bottomless" looks favoring boxers and briefs. Preceding Paris, Milan Fashion Week had already set a tone of playful experimentation, with Ralph Lauren embracing botanical exuberance and Prada delivering a pointed critique of the broader fashion landscape. This round-up delves into the key collections, trends, and underlying narratives that shaped SS27 menswear.
The Climate and Cultural Context: A Season of Unprecedented Heat and Shifting Norms
The Spring/Summer 2027 fashion season unfolded under extraordinary environmental conditions. Europe experienced its most intense heatwave on record, transforming the usually bustling fashion capitals into sweltering arenas. This extreme weather, a stark reminder of escalating climate change, subtly influenced presentations and undoubtedly informed the prevalent focus on lighter fabrics, abbreviated silhouettes, and a general move towards more breathable, less restrictive clothing. While designers rarely explicitly reference climate in their show notes, the practical implications of such heat were undeniable, perhaps inadvertently accelerating trends towards less layered and more liberated dressing.
Simultaneously, the industry continued its trajectory towards a more expansive definition of masculinity. Marie Lueder’s "men are so back" slogan, initially a statement for AW25, resonated powerfully through SS27. This sentiment reflects a sustained growth in the menswear market, which analysts predict will continue to outpace womenswear in specific luxury segments over the next decade. The modern male consumer is increasingly open to experimentation, moving beyond traditional suiting and embracing bolder colors, diverse textures, and gender-fluid aesthetics. This evolving consumer base provides designers with a fertile ground for innovation, pushing boundaries that would have been unthinkable even a few years ago.
The "bottomless" trend, where trousers were eschewed in favor of elevated underwear, emerged as a standout and provocative statement. This phenomenon, seen across multiple collections, served as more than just a nod to comfort in the heat. It can be interpreted as a rebellion against conventional dress codes, a playful subversion of modesty, and a potent symbol of gender fluidity, challenging preconceived notions of male presentation. It echoes similar trends seen in womenswear over recent years and highlights the increasing convergence of sartorial experimentation between genders.
The intersection of fashion with digital culture also reached new heights. The appearance of controversial streamer Clavicular opening 424’s show exemplified the industry’s ongoing embrace of internet personalities and the sometimes-disruptive nature of online influence. This move taps into trends like "looksmaxxing" and the engagement-driven "ragebait" culture, signaling a conscious effort by brands to connect with younger, digitally native audiences and generate viral moments beyond traditional fashion media. Meanwhile, celebrity street style, exemplified by figures like Charli XCX and Connor Storrie braving the heat in eye-catching, often impractical attire, continued to serve as a vital bridge between high fashion concepts and mainstream cultural conversation.
Milan’s Precursors: Floral Fantasies and Industry Critiques
Before the Parisian spectacle, Milan offered its own distinct narrative threads. Ralph Lauren’s SS27 men’s collection captivated with models adorned in opulent "bunches of beautiful flowers," a romantic and almost whimsical approach to menswear that leaned into vibrant patterns and natural motifs. This contrasted sharply with Prada’s presentation, where Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons reportedly delivered "very strong words" for the rest of the fashion industry, likely a critique of fleeting trends, lack of substance, or perhaps the environmental impact of rapid consumption. These Milanese overtures set a diverse stage, hinting at both the aesthetic maximalism and the thoughtful introspection that would characterize Paris.
Parisian Runway Highlights: A Deep Dive into the Collections
SAUL NASH
London-based designer Saul Nash, known for his innovative fusion of technical sportswear and fluid silhouettes, staged his SS27 show in a Milanese gymnasium, drawing unexpected inspiration from 1950s pin-up illustrations. This juxtaposition of retro Americana with cutting-edge athletic wear resulted in a collection that was both nostalgic and forward-thinking. Heavy prints emphasized the technical sportswear at the core of his work. Jackets featured precise piping, tailored trousers were unexpectedly paired with performance tops, and shirts boasted asymmetrical button placements, injecting a sense of dynamic movement. Hooded jackets cleverly doubled as shirting, styled casually with jeans, showcasing Nash’s talent for versatile, multi-functional design. The collection masterfully oscillated between practicality and refined lines, with a keen eye for detail. Darts were meticulously built into trousers to enhance fluidity and ease of movement, while second-skin tops further contributed to the collection’s athleisure-coded aesthetic. A striking sheer mesh top and shorts combo, finished with intricate paneled detailing, closed the show, embodying the collection’s blend of sensuality and athleticism. Nash’s ongoing collaboration with Portuguese footwear manufacturers APICCAPS and Toworkfor yielded a range of lace-up derbies and sturdy boat shoes, grounding the collection with functional yet stylish accessories.
THOM BROWNE
Thom Browne’s SS27 men’s presentation was a masterclass in his signature theatricality and subversive take on classic American prep. While the original text mistakenly attributed this section to Meryll Rogge, Browne’s distinct aesthetic was unmistakably present. Models paraded in exaggerated proportions, where tailored grey flannel, a Browne hallmark, was reinterpreted through elongated blazers, high-waisted shorts, and skirts for men. The show often features intricate hand-embroidery, playful animal motifs (like his recurring whale or dog iconography), and a rigorous attention to detail that elevates each piece beyond mere clothing to wearable art. His presentations are less about showing clothes and more about creating a narrative, often involving whimsical props, elaborate staging, and a consistent cast of characters in his sartorial universe. This season likely continued his exploration of uniform dressing, pushing the boundaries of traditional menswear with unexpected layering and a sophisticated, yet playful, deconstruction of formality.
MERYLL ROGGE
Belgian designer Meryll Rogge, deftly balancing her namesake brand with her creative director role at Marni, opted for an unconventional and deeply immersive presentation for her latest collection. Eschewing a traditional runway, Rogge transformed the Belgian ambassador’s residence in Paris into a curated installation in collaboration with Brussels’ Saint-Martin Bookshop. Guests wandered through a space designed to evoke an intimate auction house or personal archive, encountering show notes from previous collections alongside artfully displayed postcards, belts, and scarves, each piece hinting at a deeper narrative. The collection itself bloomed with floral-patterned shirting, injecting a vibrant and playful spirit. An oversized chino jacket was paired unexpectedly with a matching skirt, challenging gendered sartorial norms, while playful shift dresses were cinched with leather belts. Pointelle vests, adding a touch of delicate texture, were tucked into rolled-up shorts, creating a look that was both relaxed and refined. Rogge’s approach underscored her ability to craft collections that are both visually rich and conceptually engaging, all while maintaining a distinct personal vision.
ACNE STUDIOS
Acne Studios’ creative director Jonny Johansson disrupted the conventional office dress code with his latest menswear line for SS27. Johansson articulated his fascination with "individual expression at the office, which can function as a kind of everyday social experiment," noting the "push and pull tension" in corporate attire. This intellectual framework translated into a collection that dialed up rebellion and personal flair. Studded denim pieces riffed on 1950s rock’n’roll influences, injecting a raw, rebellious energy into office-appropriate silhouettes. A puffed-out emerald waistcoat offered a luxurious, unconventional pop of color and volume. Accessories made a strong statement, including an oversized Camero bag and fringed bags that added a bohemian edge. The collection also featured straight-cut leather trousers in a rich oxblood hue, providing a sophisticated yet edgy alternative to traditional workwear, and a standout pair of sandals swathed in eyelets, demonstrating a meticulous attention to detail even in casual footwear. Acne Studios effectively explored the subversive potential within everyday uniforms, challenging the notion of conformity in professional environments.
EGONLAB
Egonlab’s creative duo, Florentin Glémarec and Kevin Nompeix, conceived their SS27 collection around the potent idea of clothes as a form of armour, offering an "amped-up take on their tailoring." This concept infused the collection with a sense of protective strength, albeit with a distinctly playful edge. Playful touches were evident in details such as striped, upturned cuffs on shirting, adding a dynamic flourish. Thigh-grazing shorts paired with flip-flops presented a bold, summery defiance, while layered denim constructed exaggerated proportions, pushing the boundaries of silhouette. The show also featured shirtless models adorned with necklaces resembling antique photo frames, alongside tiny shorts, oversized hats, and statement boots, creating a strong visual narrative of curated defiance. Softening this robust aesthetic were delicate lace boxers paired unexpectedly with bomber jackets, a lightweight lace-scalloped dress, and a vest finished with a charming bow, which symbolically "tied everything together" as the closing look. Egonlab’s collection was a compelling exploration of vulnerability and strength, presented through a lens of innovative tailoring and provocative styling.
AMI PARIS
Alexandre Mattiussi’s Ami Paris delivered a heartfelt "love letter to Paris" that perfectly captured the city’s joie de vivre, especially pertinent after a weekend of Fête de la Musique festivities and an ongoing heatwave. Mattiussi described the collection as "created with optimism, energy, and a genuine sense of happiness," drawing inspiration from "the spirit of Paris, the warmth of memories, and the people who inspire me every day." The runway began with a relaxed, sophisticated ease: a slouchy blazer, an ochre shirt, and loose shorts that exuded a casual comfort, reminiscent of Adam Sandler’s laid-back style. The collection quickly diversified, showcasing spliced skirts providing an off-kilter complement to lace-up trainers, and a clever built-in shirt-and-tie concoction offset by a delicate charm necklace. Utility was also present in trench coats, basketball shorts, and trainers. The appearance of Anwar Hadid in joggers, loafers, and an "I Love Paris" t-shirt perfectly encapsulated the collection’s blend of comfort, casual luxury, and Parisian affection. The collection seamlessly oscillated between sporty athleisure, featuring tracksuits in vivid traffic-light red, and collegiate styling. A standout sequined pair of basketball shorts cut through the preppiness of loafers and button-up shirts, adding a touch of unexpected dazzle and proving Ami’s knack for playful contrasts.
GIVENCHY
Sarah Burton’s highly anticipated first swing at menswear for Givenchy, since assuming the creative director reins in 2024, left a resounding impression. Presented as an intimate showing rather than a traditional runway, the collection was a cohesive and sophisticated line-up, deeply rooted in the refined tailoring and subversive elegance that have become Burton’s signature. Her vision for menswear felt like a natural extension of her celebrated womenswear, fostering a clear visual dialogue between the two. Nipped-in waists were emphasized through double-breasted tailoring, often paired unexpectedly with rugby shirts, blending formal structure with athletic ease. Playful details, such as blazer lapels repositioned closer to the waist, added an element of unexpected asymmetry. The collection also showcased floral-adorned bombers, injecting a vibrant, artistic touch, and outerwear in striking Pepto-Bismol pink, demonstrating a fearless approach to color. Sporty leather sets further underscored Burton’s versatility, showcasing a collection that was both immaculately crafted and imbued with a contemporary, forward-thinking spirit.
IM MEN
IM Men’s SS27 collection, aptly titled Bamboo, took its inspiration quite literally, featuring a wealth of designs crafted from innovative bamboo thread. The collection drew further creative impetus from an exhibition at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris, resulting in a line saturated with monochromatic, earthy tones that grounded its experimental spirit. Silk pleated bags were paired with intricately woven jackets, while eyewear was strikingly flanked by abstract wooden structures, creating a natural, organic aesthetic. Tops made of actual leaves sat alongside sharply tailored trousers, demonstrating a bold embrace of natural materials. Slouchy printed jumpers were offset with clashing bottoms, adding a dynamic tension. Midway through the collection, a vibrant shift occurred, with pops of pastel taking center stage. A pleated green set was a particular highlight, followed by flowing dyed pink garments and circular wooden necklaces, injecting a joyful, colorful energy. Equal parts refined and high-octane, Bamboo was a masterclass in pushing the boundaries of material experimentation and design.
YOHJI YAMAMOTO
Yohji Yamamoto’s SS27 catwalk presentation was a poetic journey through deconstruction, texture, and a subtly twisted elegance. The initial three looks were strikingly simple and understated, rendered in ashen tones, with casual jackets subtly decorated with grommets, setting a minimalist, almost stark tone. Models moved with a deliberate, leisurely pace, allowing each detail to register. The subsequent looks continued with Yamamoto’s signature black, but introduced a new dimension: buttons beneath gossamer-fine tops that, from a distance, shimmered like sequins under the light, adding a delicate, ethereal quality. Black garments then became canvases for paint-strewn, marble prints, transforming overcoats, tops, and shorts into wearable abstract art. An injection of vibrant red marked a distinct pivot, energizing the palette. This was followed by a mixture of patterned and ecru grommet jackets, maintaining the collection’s industrial edge. The show culminated in a regal velvet suit splashed with grey prints, knits that appeared artfully unravelled, and a masked, beret-wearing woman swinging a metal chain adorned with a crystal. This final tableau offered a darkly romantic, almost gothic interpretation of regency-core, cementing Yamamoto’s reputation for profound, avant-garde storytelling.
JUNYA WATANABE
Junya Watanabe’s SS27 men’s outing was a riot of collaborations and dazzling excess, a stark departure from his more subdued AW26 collection. Titled Bling Bling Bling, the line was an overt homage to 1980s hip-hop culture, with no look spared from the dazzling treatment. Tracksuits, a result of a collaboration with sports giant Kappa, were bedecked with thick chains and cascades of pearls, transforming athletic wear into statements of luxury and defiance. Bejeweled DHL trucker caps appeared throughout, further cementing the collection’s playful, branded opulence. Over-the-top Kappa logos ran the entire length of sleeves, and small crowns engraved with "JW Man," the distinctive work of artist Kota Okuda, added an exclusive touch. Bermuda shorts paired with pristine white trainers made a significant noise, asserting a bold, confident aesthetic. This collection represented a radical shift from his AW26 presentation, which had explored traditional menswear, spliced denim, and mixed textures, proving Watanabe’s remarkable ability to constantly reinvent and keep the audience on its toes with unexpected thematic explorations.
LANVIN
For Lanvin SS27 men’s, Peter Copping’s vision seamlessly merged functional elements with formal sophistication, drawing inspiration from surrealists such as André Breton and Julian Schnabel. This collection was particularly significant as it marked the 100th year of Lanvin menswear, a milestone celebrated with a thoughtful blend of heritage and modernity. Copping collaborated with British knitwear maker John Smedley, crafting pieces that subtly referenced the house’s rich archive while feeling entirely contemporary. Clashing patterns served as a through-line, artfully modernized to feel fresh and relevant. A standout piece was a duck-egg blue shirt, delicately littered with small eyelets and intricate silver detailing, expertly paired with pinstripe trousers. This ensemble perfectly encapsulated the collection’s "chic" aesthetic, demonstrating a nuanced understanding of masculine elegance that is both practical and artfully conceived.
ERL
ERL’s SS27 presentation marked a significant new chapter for the brand: its debut womenswear collection, unconventionally staged within the men’s fashion week schedule. The brand had tantalizingly teased the collection on Instagram with a series of evocative images: floral pink wallpaper, a stately grandfather clock, antique china, picturesque views of Martha’s Vineyard, lucite heels, and delicate floral separates, all hinting at a dreamy, nostalgic Americana. The presentation itself transformed these hints into a vibrant tableau, inspired by a trip to Martha’s Vineyard. Models lounged on Barbie-pink plinths, exuding a casual elegance in dainty slips, flowing cover-ups, and preppy shirts. One model was famously captured reading the sci-fi novel Icerigger in a purple lace bra and 2000s-coded lace-up jeans, a look reminiscent of a subtly toned-down Christina Aguilera from her "Dirrty" video era. In another corner, a trio of models in checked shirts and jeans stood casually with sweaters draped over their shoulders, embodying a relaxed collegiate vibe. Rails were lined with the same blooming florals teased on Instagram, alongside blazers and shirts covered in vibrant prints. Jumpers emblazoned with "California" sat next to pink bleached denim and an oversized beach bag, completing a narrative of sun-kissed, youthful rebellion. ERL’s venture into womenswear, presented with such a clear and evocative narrative, firmly established a new and exciting direction for the brand.
HERMÈS
The Hermès SS27 men’s line, designed by the in-house team while anticipation builds for Grace Wales Bonner’s arrival in January, presented a compelling case for the enduring appeal of quiet luxury. The collection’s backbone was a sophisticated blend of functional and polished pieces: impeccably crafted leather bomber jackets, slim ties, and refined outerwear. This 40-look offering was replete with transitional garments, designed for effortless elegance across various settings. Key pieces included chunky herringbone cardigans and collarless shirts, offering relaxed yet luxurious layering options. Accessories were equally refined, with sandals and immaculately tailored trousers complementing bags roomy enough to double as overnight luggage, underscoring the brand’s commitment to both style and utility. Staples such as perforated jackets, relaxed shirts that instantly elevated casual trousers, and sleek anoraks highlighted the collection’s focus on subtle luxury. Compelling shades of pastel pink, lilac, and powder blue were strategically mixed in, adding welcome injections of color to an otherwise neutral, monochromatic wardrobe. Hermès definitively proved that the quiet luxury trend, characterized by understated elegance and unparalleled quality, continues to thrive.
UNDERCOVER
Undercover designer Jun Takahashi found profound inspiration in the works of Belgian artist Michaël Borremans, translating the artist’s distinct visual language across painting, drawing, film, and sculpture into his SS27 collection. Takahashi achieved this artistic homage by rendering Borremans’ enigmatic and often unsettling imagery directly onto bomber jackets, transforming them into wearable canvases. Cardigans became mobile works of art, and delicate lace pieces were adorned with painterly floral motifs, blurring the lines between fashion and fine art. While these pieces offered a bold artistic statement, the outerwear segment of the collection leaned into a more subdued, yet equally sophisticated, aesthetic. This included sharply tailored leather jackets, sleek multi-zip styles in a rich cognac brown, and lightweight nylon jackets that possessed an effortlessly fluid drape, inviting a tactile appreciation. Undercover’s collection was a powerful demonstration of how art can inform and elevate fashion, creating garments that are both thought-provoking and inherently desirable.
Broader Implications and the Future of Menswear
Paris Fashion Week SS27 Men’s was more than just a seasonal display of clothes; it was a microcosm of broader cultural and environmental shifts. The intense heatwave served as an undeniable backdrop, subtly influencing design choices towards lightness and comfort, and perhaps prompting deeper conversations about sustainability within the industry, even if not overtly stated. The widespread adoption of "bottomless" looks and the blurring of traditional gender lines, exemplified by skirts for men and ERL’s womenswear debut within the men’s schedule, signify a continuing evolution in male identity and self-expression. Fashion is increasingly becoming a playground for challenging societal norms, embracing fluidity, and celebrating individuality.
Furthermore, the integration of digital personalities and internet culture, as seen with Clavicular’s cameo, underscores the industry’s ongoing adaptation to new forms of influence and audience engagement. This signals a future where fashion shows are not just for industry insiders but also curated digital events, designed to resonate across social media platforms and connect with a global, digitally-savvy consumer base.
Overall, the SS27 men’s collections showcased a menswear landscape that is more dynamic, experimental, and self-aware than ever before. From Saul Nash’s technical sportswear infused with vintage charm to Junya Watanabe’s blinged-out hip-hop homage, and Givenchy’s refined subversion of tailoring, designers are pushing creative boundaries and redefining what it means to dress as a man in the 21st century. The season affirmed that menswear is not just "back," but actively leading the charge in innovation and cultural commentary.
