The National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO), the primary advocacy group representing the interests of the United States textile industry from fiber production through finished sewn products, has formally concluded its annual officer elections for fiscal year 2026. The announcement, made in Washington, D.C., follows the organization’s annual meeting held from April 14 to April 16, 2026. During this assembly, the NCTO membership elected Amy Bircher Bruyn, CEO and Founder of MMI Textiles, to serve as Chair, and Jay Todd, CEO and Managing Partner of Service Thread, to serve as Vice Chair.
The transition in leadership comes at a pivotal moment for the American textile sector, which remains a critical component of the national manufacturing base. The NCTO represents a supply chain that supports more than 450,000 American jobs and contributes significantly to the domestic economy. The election of Bircher Bruyn and Todd reflects the industry’s focus on navigating a complex global trade environment, characterized by shifting supply chains and increased legislative scrutiny of international trade agreements.
Leadership Profiles and Industry Background
Amy Bircher Bruyn, the newly elected Chair, brings decades of entrepreneurial and industrial experience to the role. As the founder of MMI Textiles, based in Brooklyn, Ohio, she has overseen the growth of a global supplier that provides industrial, military, and custom textile solutions. Her background is particularly relevant as the industry seeks to bolster its presence in specialized technical textiles and military applications. Bircher Bruyn has long been an advocate for domestic manufacturing, emphasizing the need for a resilient, U.S.-based supply chain that can withstand global disruptions.
Jay Todd, stepping into the role of Vice Chair, leads Service Thread, a prominent manufacturer of industrial threads and yarns based in North Carolina. His expertise in the mid-stream processing of textiles provides a balanced perspective to the NCTO leadership team, representing the vital yarn and thread manufacturing segment that serves as the backbone for both apparel and industrial fabric production. Together, Bircher Bruyn and Todd are tasked with steering the organization’s lobbying efforts and strategic initiatives through a period of intense economic competition.
The 2026 Policy Roadmap and Strategic Objectives
In a statement following the elections, NCTO President and CEO Kim Glas outlined a comprehensive policy roadmap for the 2026 fiscal year. The organization’s primary focus remains the preservation and strengthening of the domestic textile production chain through rigorous trade enforcement and legislative advocacy.
A central pillar of this strategy is the defense of preferential treatment under the United States-Mexico-Canada Agreement (USMCA) and the Central America-Dominican Republic Free Trade Agreement (CAFTA-DR). These agreements utilize "yarn-forward" rules of origin, which require that the components of a finished garment—from the yarn spinning to the weaving or knitting—must be produced within the member countries to qualify for duty-free access. NCTO leadership views these rules as essential for maintaining the $15 billion in annual textile and apparel trade between the U.S. and its regional partners.
Furthermore, the NCTO has signaled an aggressive stance on customs enforcement. Industry leaders have expressed growing concern over "import fraud," including the misclassification of goods and the exploitation of "de minimis" thresholds that allow low-value shipments to enter the U.S. market without the same level of scrutiny or duty application as larger commercial shipments. The NCTO argues that these loopholes undermine domestic manufacturers and compromise the integrity of the U.S. market.
Strengthening the Domestic Supply Chain and the Berry Amendment
The NCTO’s 2026 agenda also prioritizes the expansion of the Berry Amendment and other "Buy American" procurement policies. The Berry Amendment is a statutory requirement that restricts the Department of Defense (DoD) from using funds for the procurement of food, clothing, fabrics, fibers, and other made-up goods that are not grown, reprocessed, reused, or produced in the United States.
By advocating for the expansion of these requirements to other federal agencies and ensuring strict adherence within the DoD, the NCTO aims to secure a stable market for high-quality, domestically produced textiles. This is seen not only as an economic necessity but also as a matter of national security, ensuring that the U.S. military is not dependent on foreign adversaries for essential gear and uniforms.
In addition to procurement, the NCTO is pushing for refined tariff policies. This includes seeking "carve-outs" or exemptions for specific machinery and raw material inputs that are not produced within the United States. Such measures are intended to lower the cost of production for domestic manufacturers, allowing them to invest more heavily in automation and advanced manufacturing technologies.
Governance and Council Representation
The NCTO operates through a structured governance model designed to ensure that every segment of the textile supply chain has a voice in the organization’s decision-making process. The association is comprised of five distinct councils:
- The Fiber Council: Representing producers of natural and synthetic fibers.
- The Yarn Council: Focusing on the spinning and processing of yarns.
- The Fabric Council: Representing weavers and knitters of industrial and apparel fabrics.
- The Finished Goods Council: Focusing on the manufacturers of end-use products, including apparel and home textiles.
- The Suppliers Council: Representing the providers of chemicals, machinery, and services to the industry.
During the annual meeting, each council elected its own chair and representatives to the NCTO Board of Directors and the Executive Committee. This democratic structure ensures that the organization’s policy positions are balanced and representative of the entire industry, from the largest multinational fiber producers to small, family-owned sewing operations.
Economic Impact and Global Context
The U.S. textile industry remains a powerhouse of innovation and economic activity. According to data integrated from the 2024-2025 economic census, the sector continues to invest billions of dollars annually in new plants and equipment. The shift toward "near-shoring"—moving production closer to the end consumer in North and Central America—has gained momentum as brands seek to reduce lead times and minimize the carbon footprint associated with trans-Pacific shipping.
The 450,000 jobs supported by the industry are often located in rural communities where textile mills serve as the primary economic engine. The NCTO’s focus on Western Hemisphere co-production is intended to capitalize on these regional advantages. By fostering a "co-production" chain with partners in the Caribbean Basin and Central America, U.S. textile manufacturers can remain competitive against subsidized imports from Asia while maintaining high labor and environmental standards.
However, the industry faces headwinds. The rise of ultra-fast fashion and the proliferation of direct-to-consumer shipments from overseas platforms have disrupted traditional retail models. The NCTO’s leadership has indicated that they will continue to press the U.S. government to address what they describe as "predatory trade practices" that threaten the viability of the domestic manufacturing base.
Analysis of Implications for the 2026-2027 Period
The election of Bircher Bruyn and Todd signals a period of continuity and intensification in the NCTO’s advocacy efforts. Given Bircher Bruyn’s experience in the industrial and military sectors, observers expect a heightened focus on technical textiles—a segment of the industry that has seen consistent growth due to demand in the medical, automotive, and aerospace sectors.
The focus on "customs enforcement" and "tariff refinements" suggests that the NCTO will be highly active in the halls of Congress and within the Office of the U.S. Trade Representative (USTR) over the next 18 months. As the 2026 midterm elections approach, the industry will likely leverage its significant employment footprint in key states—such as North Carolina, Georgia, and South Carolina—to ensure that textile manufacturing remains a priority on the national political agenda.
Moreover, the emphasis on the Western Hemisphere co-production chain is a strategic move to insulate the U.S. industry from the volatility of U.S.-China trade relations. By strengthening the "yarn-forward" ecosystem, the NCTO is betting on a regionalized trade future where speed-to-market and compliance with environmental and social governance (ESG) standards become the primary competitive advantages for American producers.
Conclusion and Outlook
The National Council of Textile Organizations enters the 2026 fiscal year with a clear mandate: to protect domestic jobs and promote the growth of the U.S. textile supply chain through rigorous policy advocacy. Under the leadership of Chair Amy Bircher Bruyn and Vice Chair Jay Todd, and the executive direction of Kim Glas, the NCTO is positioned to challenge trade policies that disadvantage American workers while championing the innovation that defines modern U.S. textile manufacturing.
As the global landscape continues to evolve, the NCTO’s ability to influence trade enforcement and federal procurement will be the barometer for the industry’s success. The decisions made during the April annual meeting in Washington have set the stage for a proactive and assertive defense of an industry that remains foundational to the American economy. With a focus on fairness, enforcement, and regional partnership, the NCTO aims to ensure that the "Made in USA" label remains a hallmark of quality and resilience in the global marketplace.
