When it comes to the Dutch watchmaking brand Holthinrichs, the concept of a collection being "experimental" is almost a misnomer. The brand’s entire ethos, founded by Michiel Holthinrichs, is deeply rooted in the pioneering application of 3D printing, also known as additive manufacturing, in the horological world. This foundational approach inherently positions every creation as an exploration, pushing the boundaries of what is possible with this relatively niche production method. The Holthinrichs LAB Series, in particular, serves as the brand’s dedicated sandbox for innovation, and the latest additions, the LAB Series 1.S and the LAB Series GMT, exemplify this commitment to pushing the envelope.
The Evolution of Holthinrichs: From Raw Beginnings to Refined Innovation
Holthinrichs has steadily progressed since its inception, with early models exhibiting a raw, almost intentional rawness, a testament to the nascent stages of their 3D printing mastery. Even models reviewed as recently as three years prior, such as the RAW Ornament, appear less refined in hindsight when compared to the sophisticated execution of current offerings. This constant drive for improvement, a characteristic that defines Holthinrichs, is palpable in the latest LAB Series. The brand’s journey reflects a decade of dedicated research and development, transforming additive manufacturing from a novel technique into a sophisticated tool for creating visually stunning and functionally complex timepieces.
The LAB Series occupies the apex of Holthinrichs’s collections, not necessarily in terms of inherent superiority, but as the platform for showcasing the brand’s most daring innovations. This contrasts with the Signature Ornament series, which represents the brand’s more accessible entry point. The Signature series features impressive yet less intricate cases, classic dials, and primarily time-only functions, often produced in more substantial, non-limited runs. It is within this series that one can find the brand’s signature handmade porcelain dials. However, it is the LAB Series where Holthinrichs truly unleashes its creative prowess, venturing into hand-patinated dials, additional complications, and a masterful demonstration of the design possibilities afforded by 3D-printed cases.
A Masterclass in Case Design: The 38.5mm Titanium Chassis
The standout element of any Holthinrichs timepiece, and indeed a focal point of the new LAB Series, is the case. The 38.5mm titanium case of these new models retains the sweeping silhouette characteristic of the Signature series but elevates it with astonishingly intricate lugs. Described by the brand as "the thinnest possible lug structures," these components have been meticulously hollowed and carved to create delicate, ribbony slits that trace the wavelike contours of the lugs. This level of detail in a 3D-printed component speaks volumes about the brand’s advanced manufacturing capabilities.
A closer examination reveals a symphony of finishes applied to the case. Certain areas are treated with minimal intervention, allowing the inherent texture of the 3D printing process to remain visible, a deliberate choice that highlights the manufacturing origin. Holthinrichs, however, demonstrates that this raw texture is merely the starting point. The curling lugs feature brushed surfaces, complementing the broadest facet of the concave bezel, which is finished with a polished edge. The middle concavity of the case itself presents yet another tactile experience with a smooth, satin-like finish. Capping off the design is a domed sapphire crystal, beneath which sits a remarkably petite crown, a design choice that, while aesthetically cohesive, might leave some users wishing for a slightly larger, more substantial crown for easier manipulation.
The Intricacies of the Clasp and the Unconventional Strap
Even the clasp of the Holthinrichs LAB Series watches becomes a canvas for exceptional design, an aspect often overlooked in watchmaking. Like the case, the clasp showcases the remarkable progress Holthinrichs has achieved through its experimentation with additive manufacturing. It is incredibly intricate, featuring a minuscule engraving of Michiel Holthinrichs’s signature and a precisely beveled pin. However, a point of consideration, and one that extends somewhat to the delicate lugs, is the perceived fragility of these elements. While the reviewer noted no damage or breakage during testing, there was a palpable sense of caution when tightening the strap, a concern that the buckle might be susceptible to breaking.
Adding to the watch’s distinct character is the strap material: rooster feet leather. Handmade with curved ends and lacking quick-release pins, this unconventional choice underscores the brand’s commitment to unique materials and artisanal craftsmanship. Despite initial reservations about durability, the strap proved surprisingly comfortable on a 7-inch wrist, and the watch itself felt well-balanced. While the color and texture of the included straps complement the watches effectively, the inherent versatility of watch customization suggests that exploring alternative strap options could further enhance the wearer’s experience, offering a broader range of aesthetic possibilities.
Dials of Distinction: Hand-Patinated Copper and Celestial Narratives
Both new LAB Series models feature Holthinrichs’s signature in-house copper patina dials. Each dial exhibits a subtle curvature, framed by a titanium flange that serves as the base for the hour markers. The handset, particularly on the GMT, is meticulously crafted to match the dial’s aesthetic, with both models incorporating Super-LumiNova for enhanced legibility. The contrast between the silver hands and the verdigris dial creates excellent readability. The finishing and patina on each dial are individually applied by hand, ensuring that no two watches are identical.
The Holthinrichs LAB Series 1.S presents a dial that evokes the imagery of lunar impact craters. A rough, radiating texture emanates from an off-center small seconds subdial, which is designed as a concavity with a subtle ridge. This unconventional placement of the radiating texture, rather than emanating from the dial’s center, adds a unique appeal and allows the subdial—the defining functional feature of the watch—to command attention. Further enhancing this visual narrative, the patina appears to have been deliberately scraped away on the subdial, revealing a deeper, brownish layer beneath. In contrast to the GMT, the 1.S features a gold Holthinrichs signature at the 12 o’clock position, providing a balanced counterpoint to the small seconds complication.
In contrast, the Holthinrichs LAB Series GMT offers a more complex dial narrative. The brand has incorporated a top-down (azimuthal) depiction of the globe in relief, standing out against the dial’s background. Though rendered as a single piece, selective carving and hand-brushing techniques have been employed to create a remarkable sense of depth and contrast. The reviewer initially perceived these features as random embellishments rather than a representation of the globe, highlighting the subtlety of the design or perhaps a lapse in initial perception. The brass crescent GMT hand is an attractive addition, but the hour markers for the GMT scale present a challenge in terms of legibility due to their insufficient contrast and size. Furthermore, the Breguet-style numerals, while referencing the brand’s past designs, may detract from the dial’s overall aesthetic without adding significant functional value.
Precision Movements and In-House Rotor Craftsmanship
Both new LAB Series watches are powered by Swiss automatic Sellita movements, visible through sapphire caseback crystals. The GMT model utilizes the SW330-2 "caller" GMT movement, renowned for its reliability and functionality in tracking a second time zone. The 1.S model, on the other hand, incorporates the less common SW360 movement, specifically chosen to deliver the distinctive small seconds display. While the SW300 series is a familiar presence in time-and-date watches, the SW360 is a novel inclusion for aBlogtoWatch reviews, typically seeing the Sellita SW261 in similar small seconds configurations. The SW360 is distinguished by its slimmer profile and an extended power reserve, offering 56 hours of autonomy at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour, mirroring the performance of the SW330-2. A significant element of Holthinrichs’s in-house craftsmanship is evident in the rotors, which are individually patinated, carved, and heat-treated by hand, adding a unique artisanal touch to the movement’s architecture.
A Decade of Innovation Celebrated
These two new models from Holthinrichs do not introduce entirely novel complications beyond the GMT function. However, their significance lies in their role as a comprehensive showcase of the brand’s accumulated expertise and progress over its ten-year history. Both the LAB Series 1.S and the LAB Series GMT serve as compelling testaments to Holthinrichs’s advancements in 3D printing technology, intricate finishing techniques, and sophisticated dial creation.
The Holthinrichs LAB Series 1.S is priced at €5,900, while the Holthinrichs LAB Series GMT is offered at €6,500. Both models are produced in a limited edition of 100 pieces each, further enhancing their exclusivity and appeal to collectors seeking unique horological pieces. These timepieces represent not just the current state of Holthinrichs’s capabilities but also a celebration of a decade dedicated to redefining the possibilities within contemporary watchmaking.
For further details and to explore the collection, interested parties can visit the official Holthinrichs website.
