In the immediate aftermath of a protracted and intense heatwave across the United Kingdom, Dazed magazine curated a compelling collection of eight photo stories, described as "febrile" and "fevered," offering a potent reflection of contemporary culture, identity, and the human condition. This curated selection, spanning diverse geographical and thematic landscapes, provides a timely lens through which to examine artistic responses to personal tribulations, societal shifts, and the enduring quest for self-expression. From intimate explorations of evolving youth identity across global cities to profound meditations on womanhood, pop stardom’s darker facets, and the vibrant legacy of queer subcultures, these photographic narratives collectively underscore the power of visual storytelling in capturing the nuanced complexities of modern life. The period of extreme temperatures, which saw record highs and significant disruption across the UK, coincided with a surge in public engagement with digital cultural content, as audiences sought both escape and profound artistic reflection. Dazed’s selection, therefore, served not only as a highlight reel of recent photographic excellence but also as a cultural barometer for a populace navigating unusual environmental and social conditions.
Chus & Greg: Fast! – Documenting the Liminality of Youth
The photographic duo Chus & Greg have consistently focused their artistic lens on the dynamic and often tumultuous landscape of youth culture, meticulously documenting the nuanced aspects of this critical passage in life. Their latest book, Fast!, stands as a testament to their deep engagement with the subject, capturing the fleeting transition from adolescence to adulthood across a global canvas. This project follows their earlier explorations, which ranged from chronicling Brighton’s burgeoning goth scene to depicting teenagers grappling with the unprecedented challenges of lockdown during the COVID-19 pandemic. Their work consistently creates a vital space for young individuals to articulate their experiences, often finding overarching insights into the universal conditions of growing up through highly specific narratives.
Fast! presents a series of portraits captured in prominent cultural hubs including London, Paris, Los Angeles, Barcelona, Madrid, and Tokyo. The photographers describe this pivotal life stage as "that moment right after teenagehood – when things are shifting, but nothing is fully defined yet." This liminal space, characterised by burgeoning independence and unresolved identities, is rendered with sensitivity and keen observational skill. The subjects in Fast! embody this period of intense self-discovery and external navigation, their expressions and postures reflecting the inherent anxieties, excitements, and uncertainties that define their journey. Chus & Greg’s approach goes beyond mere documentation; it seeks to explicate the emotional and psychological textures of this transition, making their subjects’ hyperspecific experiences resonate with a broader audience. The collection serves as an invaluable archive of contemporary youth, capturing a global phenomenon through a series of deeply personal encounters.
Kristina Rozhkova: Unbewitched – A Fever Dream of Fantasy and Dislocation
Russian artist Kristina Rozhkova’s latest photobook, Unbewitched, is a haunting and deeply personal exploration stemming from two harrowing years under criminal prosecution related to her artistic practice. Now living in exile, Rozhkova’s work traces the profound terror and subsequent displacement she experienced. In a recent interview with Dazed, she articulated the pervasive fear that shadowed her during this period: "I was in a state of constant terror. I’d walk down the street expecting to be snatched up again." This sentiment profoundly informs Unbewitched, which she describes as "about the act of conjuring a fairytale reality around yourself – constructing myths and fleeing from fear and pain into a dream."
Rozhkova’s uncanny images are a potent fusion of fantasy and nightmare, seamlessly blending the animal and human worlds into a folk horror reverie. Her aesthetic often evokes a sense of disquiet, a deliberate choice she justifies by stating, "I believe discomfort is essential in art. Society is obsessed with comfort and pleasure, but comfortable days are unremarkable." Through this philosophy, she actively seeks out imagery that oscillates between beauty and grotesquery, compelling viewers to confront what might initially repel them. This approach challenges conventional notions of aesthetic appeal, transforming perceived ugliness into something desirable and thought-provoking. Unbewitched thus becomes a powerful artistic response to political repression and personal trauma, demonstrating art’s capacity to create alternative realities as both a coping mechanism and a form of subtle resistance. Her work stands as a testament to the resilience of the artistic spirit in the face of adversity, offering a visually stunning yet unsettling journey into the psyche of an artist in exile.
Nancy Honey: A Decades-Long Exploration of Womanhood
Photographer Nancy Honey has dedicated her decades-long practice to a singular, profound objective: "Right from the very beginning, I wanted to examine how it feels, to explain what it is to be a woman," she revealed to Dazed. This enduring commitment was recently highlighted in a curated exhibition at Claire de Rouen, meticulously assembled by the shop’s new co-director, Dominic Bell. The exhibition drew from various bodies of work spanning Honey’s extensive career, offering a fresh perspective on her continuous exploration of womanhood in all its myriad forms. What emerges from this retrospective glance is a portrait of remarkable breadth and depth – playful, tender, and richly nuanced, providing a glimpse into Honey’s distinctive vision of the multiplicity of female experience.
Honey’s images are characterised by a unique lightness of touch, a quality that allows them to celebrate life even as they acknowledge its hardships. Her photographs deftly balance humour with moments of profound struggle, presenting a holistic view of women’s lives that eschews simplistic narratives. She articulates this balance by stating, "Even though I feel like I have a lot of joie de vivre, I still think I’m talking about serious things. Joy is serious." This assertion underscores the profound weight she attributes to moments of happiness and resilience, positioning them not as superficial distractions but as integral components of a complex human experience. Through her lens, Honey invites viewers to engage with the intricate tapestry of female identity, offering both intimate glimpses and broader social commentaries, making her work an invaluable contribution to the photographic canon of gender studies and social portraiture. Her dedication to capturing the authentic lived experiences of women resonates deeply, creating a legacy of empathetic and insightful visual storytelling.
KUTT: The Republication of a Cult Dyke Zine by IDEA Books
From its brief but impactful run between 2002 and 2003, the cult dyke zine KUTT has transcended its initial three issues to become the stuff of legend. Despite its limited publication, the zine amassed a fervent following that has only expanded in the years since its cessation, cementing its status as a significant cultural artifact. The recent republication of these highly sought-after issues in a single, beautifully bound edition by IDEA Books has therefore been met with widespread enthusiasm, particularly among its ever-growing legion of fans and cultural historians. This re-release offers a crucial opportunity to revisit a pivotal moment in queer media history.
The signature lilac pages of KUTT burst with the creative energy of the burgeoning queer scene of the early 2000s. Its contributors and subjects represent a veritable who’s who of cultural luminaries, including acclaimed actor Chloë Sevigny, influential writer and activist Eileen Myles, experimental filmmaker K8 Hardy, and the iconic feminist queer musician Merrill Nisker, better known as Peaches. The photographic contributions were equally stellar, featuring works by renowned artists such as Ryan McGinley, Collier Schorr, Viviane Sassen, and Martien Mulder, among many others. KUTT‘s content captured the zeitgeist of a vibrant and evolving queer community, showcasing its unique style, intellect, and unapologetic self-expression. Eileen Myles aptly described the zine as "evidence of how cool the new generation of lesbians who were around at that time were," highlighting its role as a mirror and a catalyst for a distinct cultural movement. The republication by IDEA Books not only preserves this important piece of LGBTQ+ history but also makes it accessible to new generations, fostering an understanding of the roots of contemporary queer identity and media.
Ryan O’Toole Collett: A Caged Dog Barks the Fiercest – Youth and Identity in Mexico City
London-based photographer Ryan O’Toole Collett embarked on his immersive photo project, A Caged Dog Barks the Fiercest, during a politically charged and febrile period in Mexico City, specifically in the run-up to a general election. His arrival coincided with a heightened atmosphere of social and political discourse, which prompted him to delve beyond surface perceptions and challenge his own preconceptions about Mexican culture. Collett’s work represents a deliberate move away from grand, sweeping narratives, instead favouring a more intimate and granular exploration of the city’s inhabitants.
The project features 40 portraits of Mexico City residents, each accompanied by their personal stories presented in both Spanish and English. Collett explicitly stated his intention: "I didn’t want to make grand establishing images that claimed to summarise the city." Rather, he aimed to capture a dense network of individuals whose lives and communities intersect, creating a rich tapestry of contemporary existence. The core of A Caged Dog Barks the Fiercest lies in exploring "how people negotiate who they are within contemporary social, political and economic conditions." Collett’s lens focuses on overlapping creative scenes—DJs, artists, designers, writers, students, performers, and club kids—to present a multifaceted perspective of Mexico City’s youth culture. This approach consciously avoids portraying his lone experience as an outsider, instead centring the diverse voices and lived realities of his subjects. The project thus serves as a powerful testament to the complexity of identity formation within a dynamic urban environment, offering a nuanced and empathetic portrayal that challenges monolithic cultural representations. The inclusion of personal narratives alongside portraits significantly enriches the viewer’s understanding, fostering a deeper connection to the individuals and their collective experience.
Angel Oduko and Marc Baptiste: OMOGE – An Ode to Old Nollywood Glamour
The collaborative project OMOGE, a compelling ode to the enduring glamour of Old Nollywood films, is the brainchild of photographer Marc Baptiste and creative director Angel Oduko. Titled with an affectionate Yoruba term meaning "a beautiful and stylish woman," the series meticulously follows a group of Lagos-born, Brooklyn-based friends on a vibrant night out. Oduko elucidated the casting process, explaining to Dazed, "The cast is made up of myself, friends, acquaintances, and mutuals who fit into the visual world I was building." This organic approach lent an authentic energy to the shoot, culminating in what Oduko described as an "exhilarating" experience: "There is something exhilarating about being in a group of beautiful, confident women who are immaculately dressed. The night unfolded with true chaos as people slowed down their cars to compliment us."
Styled by Lola Amu and Oyinkan Akin, the outfits and beauty looks are heavily influenced by the maximalist aesthetic and flamboyant charm characteristic of iconic Old Nollywood films. Specific inspirations cited include Afam Okereke’s Girls Cot (2006), Tchidi Chikere’s Blood Sisters (2003), and Teco Benson’s End of the Wicked (1999). These films, celebrated for their dramatic narratives and distinctive visual flair, provide a rich backdrop for OMOGE‘s contemporary reimagining of Nigerian glamour. Oduko further elaborated on the enduring appeal of Old Nollywood: "I think people love Old Nollywood because of its rawness and authenticity. Those films told more pedestrian stories, and I mean that as a compliment. They were about everyday people, everyday desires, and everyday betrayals, while still managing to be surreal and experimental." OMOGE not only pays homage to this cinematic legacy but also extends its influence into contemporary fashion and cultural identity, celebrating the vibrant spirit of Nigerian women in the diaspora and their connection to a rich cultural heritage. The project underscores the power of visual media to transcend geographical boundaries and foster a sense of collective identity and pride.
Petra Collins: STAR – The Dark Underbelly of Pop Stardom
Petra Collins, an eminent photographer and music video director, delves into the complex and often sinister world of pop celebrity and fandom with her latest photo book, STAR. Published by Rizzoli, the project crafts a fictional narrative around two musical acts: Ashley, a solo sensation, and Siren8, a teen idol group. Collins leverages her firsthand experience within the pop music industry to construct a reimagined chronicle of these fantasy pop stars’ ascent, decline, and subsequent enigmatic disappearances. Her intimate knowledge of the industry’s mechanics and cultural impact provides an authentic, albeit stylised, foundation for her exploration.
The story within STAR is uniquely told from the unsettling perspectives of fans and stalkers, adding a layer of psychological tension to the glamorous facade of celebrity. The photographs are augmented by a collection of letters, intimate conversations, and diary entries, interwoven with images of electrifying performances and meticulously staged promotional shoots. The visual language of STAR is unmistakably Collins’ signature 00s aesthetic: glittery eyeshadow, delicate camisoles, whimsical bows, glossy lips, vintage DVDs, and nostalgic corkboard collages. However, beneath this shimmering, Y2K-inspired glamour lies a potent undercurrent of darkness. The book starkly juxtaposes images of glittering fame with unsettling scenes—a hospital ward, hands dripping with blood, tear-streaked faces, and the vacant expressions often associated with a pharmaceutical haze. This stark contrast highlights the precarious balance between public adoration and private torment, suggesting that the pursuit of stardom frequently comes at a profound personal cost. STAR serves as a critical commentary on the idolisation of celebrities and the often-destructive nature of fame, offering a visually stunning yet psychologically complex narrative that resonates with contemporary discussions about mental health in the public eye.
Chad Moore: Eyes and Skies – Marvelling at the Mysteries of Existence
Chad Moore, a photographer renowned for his disarming and candid portraits of friends and New York’s vibrant youth culture, presents his latest photo book, Eyes and Skies. As the title suggests, the collection features a compelling juxtaposition of human eyes and expansive skies, inviting viewers into a world of profound observation and introspection. Moore, who also captured the striking cover for Olivia Rodrigo’s new album, you seem pretty sad for a girl so in love, articulated the core of his fascination quite simply: "There’s a kind of truth in people’s eyes in a photograph." This statement encapsulates his belief in the profound expressive power inherent in the human gaze.
Moore’s photography is imbued with a distinctly life-affirming and wondrous quality. His ability to capture genuine emotion and unguarded moments creates images that are a genuine pleasure to behold, inviting viewers to experience the world through his unique, empathetic lens. The thematic pairing of eyes and skies within the book is particularly evocative. It speaks to a common intuition that there is something intrinsically analogous between the vast, glittering expanse of the cosmos and the fathomless depths of a loved one’s eyes. Both represent immense, unquantifiable potential and mystery. Moore’s work taps into this poetic resonance, suggesting that the intricate universe can be mirrored in the intricate details of human perception and connection. For those who have ever felt this profound link – the sparkling, infinite possibilities contained within both celestial bodies and human souls – Eyes and Skies offers a deeply resonant and contemplative experience. The book encourages a sense of wonder, celebrating the beauty found in both the macrocosm and the microcosm, ultimately fostering an appreciation for the subtle yet profound mysteries that define our existence and our relationships.
Conclusion: A Curatorial Reflection of Global Intensities
Dazed’s curated selection of these eight photo stories, released in the wake of the UK’s heatwave, transcends a mere compilation of recent features. It represents a potent cultural snapshot, reflecting a period of heightened intensity and introspection. The "febrile" and "fevered" nature of these works—whether through Kristina Rozhkova’s haunting self-exile, Petra Collins’s dark dive into pop’s underbelly, or Ryan O’Toole Collett’s nuanced exploration of identity amidst political ferment—speaks to a collective yearning for art that confronts, questions, and celebrates the multifaceted human experience. From the celebratory glamour of Old Nollywood reimagined by Oduko and Baptiste to Nancy Honey’s enduring quest to define womanhood with both joy and gravity, these photographers offer diverse entry points into understanding contemporary society. The republication of KUTT further underscores the ongoing relevance of historical queer narratives, while Chus & Greg and Chad Moore provide intimate, empathetic portrayals of youth and connection. Together, these works form a compelling testament to photography’s power to both document and interpret the complex, often contradictory, realities of our world, offering solace, challenge, and profound insight in times of both environmental and cultural flux.
