For nearly nine years, the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic has occupied a unique space in the haute horlogerie landscape, consistently pushing the boundaries of what is considered ultra-thin watchmaking. This extended review, focusing on the Bulgari 103856 model with its striking salmon dial, delves into the enduring appeal and technical prowess of a timepiece that has, over time, transitioned from a novel concept to a benchmark of modern watch design. The initial release of the Octo Finissimo Automatic in 2014 marked a significant milestone for Bulgari, showcasing an in-house expertise in ultra-thin movements that has since become synonymous with the brand.
The Genesis of an Ultra-Thin Icon
Bulgari’s pursuit of extreme thinness in watchmaking predates the Octo Finissimo Automatic. However, it was this specific model that brought their technical achievements to a wider, albeit discerning, audience. Launched at a time when the integrated-bracelet sports watch was experiencing a resurgence, the Octo Finissimo Automatic offered a radically different proposition. Its architectural design, coupled with a remarkably slim profile, immediately set it apart from established players. The initial reception was one of widespread enthusiasm, recognizing it as a daring and innovative entry into a competitive market.
The Octo Finissimo Automatic’s design philosophy is rooted in a meticulous exploration of geometric forms. Eschewing curves for a series of precise angles and circles, the case is an exercise in controlled complexity. The interplay between the round dial and the octagonal elements—both the flange and the subtle peeks of the case’s angularity—creates a visual tension that is both sophisticated and intriguing. This design language, while perhaps initially challenging to fully comprehend, has proven to be enduring, contributing to the watch’s distinct identity.
A Case Study in Enduring Design and Engineering
Unlike many watches whose initial impact fades as tastes evolve, the Octo Finissimo Automatic has maintained its ability to surprise and impress. The reviewer notes a persistent sense of wonder, even after extended wear. This phenomenon, akin to that experienced with other horological icons like the Patek Philippe Nautilus or the Rolex Submariner, stems from the watch’s fundamental design integrity. It continues to reveal new facets and complexities upon repeated examination, prompting questions about the ingenuity behind its creation.
The watch’s construction, characterized by its stark geometric shapes and contrasting surface finishes, contributes to this enduring fascination. The matte octagon of the flange ring and the polished facets of the case create a dynamic visual experience. This intricate dialogue between shapes and finishes is a testament to Bulgari’s commitment to detail, transforming what could be a simple ultra-thin watch into a piece of mechanical art.
The Heart of the Matter: The BVL 138 Caliber
At the core of the Octo Finissimo Automatic’s remarkable thinness is the in-house BVL 138 caliber. Measuring a mere 2.23mm in thickness, this automatic movement is a tour de force of micro-engineering. Its construction features a platinum micro-rotor, a choice that not only adds a touch of preciousness but also contributes to the winding efficiency. While operating at a frequency of 3Hz, the movement provides a respectable 60-hour power reserve, a notable achievement for such a slender caliber.
The technical specifications of the BVL 138 are as impressive as its dimensions. The layout, size, and overall execution are unique within the industry. Bulgari has managed to integrate a robust balance bridge for enhanced security and durability, crucial for a movement designed to be exceptionally thin. The large plates are engineered to provide rigidity and strength, allowing the caliber to withstand the demands of daily wear.
Craftsmanship and Finishing: A Closer Look
Beyond its revolutionary thinness, the BVL 138 caliber showcases a high level of finishing. The area beneath the micro-rotor is extensively decorated with fine perlage, a traditional watchmaking technique that contrasts with the movement’s modern aesthetic. This detail serves as a subtle nod to classical horology, demonstrating Bulgari’s respect for heritage while embracing contemporary innovation.
Further examination of the movement reveals meticulous attention to detail, such as the small drilled holes used by Bulgari’s watchmakers. These openings facilitate the precise meshing and rotation of the going train wheels during assembly, underscoring the intricate processes involved in the development and production of the Finissimo caliber family. These subtle features contribute to the overall appreciation of the engineering marvel that lies beneath the dial.
The Salmon Dial: A Spectrum of Warmth
The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic reference 103856, subject of this review, features a salmon-colored dial that offers a captivating play of light and color. Depending on the ambient lighting, it can shift from a metallic bronze to a warm sandy hue, and, true to its name, to a rich salmon. This dynamic quality adds another layer of visual interest to an already striking timepiece.
The faceted hands, including the small seconds hand, are a testament to Bulgari’s dedication to detail. Executed with extraordinary thinness to complement the watch’s overall profile, they are designed to efficiently catch and reflect light. This ensures excellent legibility, even in low-light conditions, a crucial functional aspect for any watch. The applied hour markers further enhance this, gathering and reflecting light effectively, making time-telling a swift and intuitive process.
On the Wrist: A Symphony of Comfort and Presence
The wearing experience of the Octo Finissimo Automatic is as distinctive as its design. Its perceived presence on the wrist can be both imposing and discreet. When fully visible, the wide case and integrated bracelet create a bold statement. However, its exceptional thinness allows it to effortlessly slip under a shirt cuff, becoming a subtle yet sophisticated detail. The wearer can appreciate the elegant curve of the bezel and the sharp, ultra-thin profile of the case catching the light, a private visual pleasure.
The bracelet itself is a masterpiece of comfort and engineering. Composed of individual links that are both thin and narrow, it offers remarkable flexibility, akin to a sheet of paper. This suppleness allows the bracelet to conform naturally to the contours of the wrist, eliminating the rigidity often associated with metal bracelets. This adaptability is crucial for a comfortable wearing experience, as a rigid bracelet can feel intrusive and fight against the wrist’s natural movement.
A particularly ingenious aspect of the bracelet is its clasp integration. Bulgari has developed a solution where the folding clasp is seamlessly incorporated into hollowed-out sections of the bracelet itself. This design choice avoids the bulk and discomfort often caused by a protruding clasp digging into the underside of the wrist. This innovative approach to bracelet design, which seems to have been pioneered by Bulgari for mass production, enhances the overall comfort and wearability, particularly for a watch of this thinness.
A Movement That Surprises
Beyond the aesthetic and thinness, the mechanical movement of the Octo Finissimo Automatic consistently surprises those who experience it for the first time. When handed over to fellow watch enthusiasts, they often express astonishment not only at the watch’s thinness but also at the substantial diameter and elaborate appearance of the movement visible through the caseback. The realization of how much Bulgari has engineered into such a slender package often elicits a "penny drop" moment, deepening their appreciation for the watch’s mechanical complexity.
This appreciation is further amplified by understanding the sheer rarity of self-winding movements measuring approximately 2mm in thickness within the broader luxury watch market. The BVL 138 caliber, with its platinum micro-rotor and robust construction, stands as a remarkable achievement, capable of eliciting a smile from even the most seasoned watch collectors. It represents a significant engineering feat, solidifying the Octo Finissimo Automatic’s position as a technical marvel.
The Cult of the Icon and the Octo Finissimo’s Place
The discussion of whether the Octo Finissimo Automatic has achieved "iconic" status is a recurring theme in horological circles. The reviewer posits that while the term "iconic" is often overused, certain watches possess characteristics that propel them into this realm. After nine years since its debut, the Octo Finissimo Automatic, with its unique design, technical innovation, and enduring appeal, has demonstrably earned its place among these distinguished timepieces.
The watch has become a significant contributor to Bulgari’s identity in the watchmaking world and has influenced the broader industry. It stands as one of the few truly novel watch releases of the 2010s that has effectively showcased the technical capabilities and creative spirit of Swiss luxury watchmaking. It is instantly recognizable, yet not ubiquitous, offering a perfect balance of distinctiveness and accessibility within its segment. The Octo Finissimo Automatic is playful in its design yet grounded in respectable and unique engineering solutions, making it a captivating proposition for collectors.
A Legacy of Variations and Future Potential
Since its inception, Bulgari has expanded the Octo Finissimo line with a diverse array of dial colors and material executions, driven by a characteristic Italian flair for design. While specific limited editions like the Sejima Edition have garnered particular attention, the brand has consistently introduced popular variations. These have included artistic interpretations like the Sketch series, collaborations featuring unique material combinations such as CarbonGold, and offerings in solid gold and various ceramic finishes. The broader Octo Finissimo family also encompasses chronographs, tourbillons, and minute repeaters, showcasing Bulgari’s mastery across different complications.
The enduring appeal of the Octo Finissimo Automatic has led to speculation about potential future iterations. The reviewer expresses a personal desire for a smaller version of the watch, even if it entails a compromise on the power reserve or the automatic winding feature. This sentiment highlights the ongoing fascination with the Octo Finissimo’s design, suggesting a demand for a more compact option that could broaden its appeal further.
Pricing and Availability
The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic watch, reference 103856, with the salmon dial, is priced at $13,600 USD. This pricing reflects its position as a high-end luxury timepiece, justified by its innovative engineering, meticulous craftsmanship, and distinctive design. Interested parties can find further information and explore the collection on Bulgari’s official website.
In conclusion, the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic, particularly in its salmon dial iteration, represents a significant achievement in contemporary watchmaking. Its ultra-thin profile, striking design, and technically brilliant movement have cemented its status as a modern classic. The watch’s ability to consistently impress and intrigue, even after nearly a decade, speaks volumes about its timeless appeal and Bulgari’s unwavering commitment to pushing the boundaries of horological innovation.
